Our Inspector's view

Built for one Captain Arthur Drummond in the 1870s, when it was known with becoming modesty as Cromlix Cottage, then promptly rebuilt the same decade when it burned down, the turreted manor house is now owned by local boy Sir Andy Murray. Public rooms are the height of country-house elegance, the dining room a glassed-in conservatory that looks over the sumptuous grounds. Named in honour of its executive presence, the much-garlanded Albert Roux, Darin Campbell's kitchen aims high, blending elements of French gastronomic classicism with vivacious cooking in the modern global style. Orkney hand-dived scallops come with a salad of Cromlix garden rainbow chard and edamame beans, making a fine beginning, followed perhaps with mallard from the Braco Estate. Spiced French pumpkin soufflé with chocolate orange ice cream is an unusual dessert with great depth of flavour. The French-leaning wine list offers an impressive selection of half bottles and wines by the glass.

Awards, accolades and Welcome Schemes

3 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence