Fernery, at Grove of Narberth
“Dynamic, contemporary dining in idyllic Pembrokeshire setting” - AA Inspector
NARBERTH, PEMBROKESHIRE
Our Inspector's view
The Grove is a beautiful 17th-century manor house, now a delightful boutique hotel with individually designed bedrooms, idyllically set in 26 acres of wonderful Pembrokeshire countryside. The atmosphere is relaxed and welcoming, and there are views of the Preseli Hills, as well as four acres of pretty gardens to explore, including a fine kitchen garden. This is where they grow a wide variety of fruit, herbs and vegetables, much of which, along with plenty of local Welsh fare, will make an appearance on the menu. Inside you’ll find an elegant, intimate blend of traditional comforts and more modern touches, all very stylishly done, while The Fernery itself, with its calm, neutral decor and fern-inspired details, is an intimate and understated setting for Douglas Balish’s dynamic, contemporary food. Choose from a five or eight-course tasting menu, all courses with matching wine recommendations. You might begin with Grove Vegetables – a delightfully fresh combination of onion, celeriac, beetroot and turnip, all cooked beautifully, with a Hafod cheese cream and roasted kale and nettle velouté. Another choice might be an excellent Pembroke oyster, accompanied by crisp pickled cucumber, sea purslane and a well-judged sour cream and jalapeño foam, with caviar providing a touch of indulgence. Main course Anjou squab breast is perfectly timed – pink, tender and succulent, with a smooth walnut purée and flavours of cherry, celeriac and nasturtium. Beef fillet is accompanied by a delightfully crispy potato terrine, topped with chives and sour cream, the richness of braised oxtail contrasting with the freshness of Thai basil. Puddings show similar levels of intelligent precision – a good example pairs crisp layers of macadamia discs as a crunchy contrast to smooth mascarpone, with a perfect quenelle of deeply flavoured and refreshing rhubarb sorbet. This is a chef at the top of his game.
Awards, accolades and Welcome Schemes
4 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence
AA Wine Award (Wales)
AA Notable Wine List
Facilities – at a glance
Credit cards accepted
Private dining
Tasting menu
Vegetarian menu
Wheelchair access
Features
- Seats: 34
- Private dining available
- On-site parking available
- Wheelchair accessible
- Steps for wheelchair: 2
- Assist dogs welcome
- Open all year
- Wines under £30: 2
- Wines over £30: 300
- Wines by the glass: 30
- Cuisine style: Modern British
- Vegetarian menu
Also in the area
About the area
Discover Pembrokeshire
Wales meets the Atlantic Ocean in spectacular fashion at Pembrokeshire. Unlike the West Country, Pembrokeshire can offer the coast without the crowds, and quaint fishing villages without those huge coach parks. Volcanic eruptions and earth movements have left a tortured rocky coastline of some 160 miles, whose beauty and drama have been recognised by National Park status.
Sometimes known as ‘Little England Beyond Wales’, the county has held a fascination for English visitors ever since the first Norman warlords forced their way in 800 years ago, leaving a string of 50 fine castles in their wake. The anonymous author of The Mabinogion, an 11th-century collection of Welsh folk legends, started it all. His description of the old Celtic kingdom of Dyfed (which encompasses Cardiganshire, Carmarthenshire and Pembrokeshire) as ‘the land of magic and enchantment’ was perhaps the earliest written attempt to sum up the outstanding natural beauty of this wonderful westernmost outpost of Wales. This is a county where you can take it easy on the sandy beaches, make sport out of those Atlantic waves, or discover the mysteries of St David’s or the ancient Preseli Hills.
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