Our Inspector's View

Built of red sandstone in 1892 in the Scots baronial style for a scion of the Sandeman port-shipping family, Fonab Castle stands on a wooded hillside overlooking Loch Faskally. It embarked on its career as a top-end hotel only in 2013, and its surviving panelled hall, exquisite plasterwork and magnificent stone fireplaces make an appealing contrast to the spa facilities and contemporary Scottish cooking also on offer. That latter is enjoyed at its best in the Sandeman Fine Dining restaurant, where the six-course taster offers an exciting programme of cutting-edge dishes, with appetisers and a pre-dessert filling in the gaps between main items. These could take in braised shin of Highland beef with pumpkin espuma, before moving on to venison with salsify purée, baked and raw beetroot and a rich, glossy sauce with clear notes of bitter chocolate. An excellent slate of wines by the glass is an asset.

Awards, Accolades & welcome Schemes

3 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence