French House

“Gusty classic cooking above an iconic Soho pub” - AA Inspector

LOCATION

LONDON W1, LONDON POSTAL DISTRICTS

Official Rating
Inspected by
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Awards
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Our Inspector's view

In the pint-sized dining room above the old French-themed Soho boozer, getting a table since the arrival of chef Neil Borthwick (formerly of the Merchants Tavern in Shoreditch) is a difficult call. Like its dinky, endearingly shabby bar below, the dining room is defiantly stripped back; herringbone boarded floor, small old wooden tables and café-style chairs, while its dark burgundy walls are stacked with old black-and-white photos of Soho luminaries. (The French has always been a popular bohemian haunt, with its no music, no TV, no mobile phone rule.) Borthwick’s handwritten menu certainly fits the billing; pleasingly short, daily-changing classic dishes (showing confident restraint and pleasingly devoid of cheffy artsy flourishes) come underpinned by precision and bold flavour. Picking highlights isn’t easy; think top-draw salt cod beignets with piquant aioli or pig’s head terrine to open, while flawless, sea-fresh roasted cod is seamlessly partnered by fennel and Seville orange to follow. The finale might boast a classic Paris brest drench in chocolate sauce or textbook fresh-from-the-oven madeleines. Service is defiantly relaxed, while wines are resolutely Francophile with bags available by glass.

Awards, accolades and Welcome Schemes

award
2 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence
French House
49 Dean Street, Soho, LONDON W1, LONDON POSTAL DISTRICTS, W1D 5BG

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