“Gusty classic cooking above an iconic Soho pub” - AA Inspector
LONDON W1, LONDON POSTAL DISTRICTS
Our Inspector's view
In the pint-sized dining room above the old French-themed Soho boozer, getting a table since the arrival of chef Neil Borthwick (formerly of the Merchants Tavern in Shoreditch) is a difficult call. Like its dinky, endearingly shabby bar below, the dining room is defiantly stripped back; herringbone boarded floor, small old wooden tables and café-style chairs, while its dark burgundy walls are stacked with old black-and-white photos of Soho luminaries. (The French has always been a popular bohemian haunt, with its no music, no TV, no mobile phone rule.) Borthwick’s handwritten menu certainly fits the billing; pleasingly short, daily-changing classic dishes (showing confident restraint and pleasingly devoid of cheffy artsy flourishes) come underpinned by precision and bold flavour. Picking highlights isn’t easy; think top-draw salt cod beignets with piquant aioli or pig’s head terrine to open, while flawless, sea-fresh roasted cod is seamlessly partnered by fennel and Seville orange to follow. The finale might boast a classic Paris brest drench in chocolate sauce or textbook fresh-from-the-oven madeleines. Service is defiantly relaxed, while wines are resolutely Francophile with bags available by glass.
Awards, accolades and Welcome Schemes
Also in the area
About The area
The UK's capital was founded by the Romans shortly after they invaded in 43AD. Since then it’s evolved into one of the greatest cities on earth. From a bloody, squalid history to the vanguard of fashion in the Swinging 1960s to the buzzing metropolis it is today, London has something for everyone. There are very British pursuits like the Oxford and Cambridge boat race, changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace and an impressive collection of traditional English pubs. And that’s not to mention world-renowned arts venues, galleries and museums, award-winning theatre and unrivalled shopping – all found within a few Tube stops of each other.
London’s royal history is not to be missed. Visitors can roam around one of Britain’s finest medieval castles and royal prison, and learn about the final days of Anne Boleyn at the Tower of London or, for the less bloodthirsty, visit the Queen’s London home, Buckingham Palace. Don’t miss out on exploring the capital’s Royal Parks – from St James’ Park and Hyde Park in the centre to the majestic Hampton Court and wilderness of Richmond Park in the southwest.
Places to Stay
Recommended things to do
Why choose Rated Trips?
Your trusted guide to rated places across the UK
The best coverage
Discover more than 15,000 professionally rated places to stay, eat and visit from across the UK and Ireland.
Choose a place to stay safe in the knowledge that it has been expertly assessed by trained assessors.
Plan your next trip
Search by location or the type of place you're visiting to find your next ideal holiday experience.
Read our articles, city guides and recommended things to do for inspiration. We're here to help you explore the UK.