Our Inspector's view

If you want the full-on Tudor mansion experience, you could do worse than spend a day or so at this sumptuous country house hotel with its acres of panelling, intricate plasterwork ceilings, stone mullioned windows and delightful gardens. From the mellow stone walls to the complicated chimneys, it’s everything an Elizabethan bride could have desired – which is lucky, since it was built for one. You can see her initials, and those of her husband, above the garden entrance. In the kitchens, however, things have come on a bit since the 16th century. There are no scullions to turn the spit now, instead head chef George Blogg has all the shiny stainless steel he could desire from which to work his magic. The stylish dining room – an effortlessly stunning space with jaw-dropping floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the gardens and beautiful grassy-green banquettes to add to the sensation that room and garden are one – is the perfect backdrop for the dynamic, contemporary British cooking. Light and airy during the day and subtly lit at night it must surely be one of the most atmospheric places to eat in the country. The daily-changing set menus (three course lunch, four course dinner) are seasonal, and dishes are pretty as a picture. Midsummer might see you start things off with cured Dorset char, or perhaps Shropshire rose veal tartare with lovage, caper and smoked potato. An intermediate course of native lobster with scallop, chamomile and carrot will lead nicely into a main of Cumbrian lamb; loin and belly, with spinach, mint and baby turnip, or the freshest turbot, with fresh peas, wilted lettuce and black truffle. Then a choice – cheese or dessert? There are six Sussex artisan cheeses, so that’s tempting, but who wants to miss out on the blackcurrant soufflé and cassis ice cream or strawberries, meringue, yogurt and verbena? Luckily you can pay a supplement and have both.

Awards, accolades and Welcome Schemes

4 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence

AA Notable Wine List