Our Inspector's view

The Elizabethan mansion was built by one Richard Infield as a little something for his new bride. Their initials appear above the garden entrance, and the place still works its soft-focus romantic magic 400 years later, delivering the upscale country house experience in spades with its interiors of lavish panelling and intricate plasterwork mouldings brought into the 21st century alongside elegant modern comforts. A century ago, the place was owned by the great Victorian landscaper William Robinson, who laid out its acres of grounds in the style still seen today. Gravetye closed for several months in order to build the stylish new dining room for George Blogg to showcase his dynamic contemporary British cooking, and the results have brought wow factor in spades. Floor-to-ceiling glass walls open up views of those glorious gardens, whose walled sections provide a plentiful seasonal bounty that inspires what turns up on your plate. Expect a modernist style that explores creative combinations of flavour and textural contrasts, starting with roasted Norfolk quail, the breast and leg perfectly timed and delivered in an innovative presentation involving fresh diced pear, quince purée, a rich and elegant liver parfait, and seeded granola for textural interest. Flavours are sharply defined and true in a fish course starring splendid loin of south coast haddock with parsnip purée, crisp chicken skin and Savoy cabbage, all made glamorous by the addition of black truffle and a glossy roasted chicken sauce of mesmerising fragrance, while meat might be represented by a tomahawk cut of local venison given smoky barbecued depth by wood grilling, and served with butternut squash, ceps and chestnuts. Desserts aim for deep satisfaction in the form of a masterclass forced rhubarb soufflé with stem ginger ice cream. A compendious, globe-spanning wine list delivers plenty to please, ranging from the local Sussex terroir to pedigree vintages that will catch the eye of the big spenders.

Awards, accolades and Welcome Schemes

4 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence