Our Inspector's View

Hambleton was built by a Victorian chap who made his fortune in brewing and rather fancied a place to stop over when enjoying the hunting in this part of the country. He picked a good spot that got even better when Rutland Water reservoir was opened in 1976. It remains a handsome property, its public rooms full of lively colour and opulent fabric, and the major attraction of spectacularly good dining in the soft-focus elegance of its dining room. Aaron Patterson has made a major contribution to Hambleton's charms, heading up the kitchen since 1992 after some handy time spent in the stellar kitchens of Raymond Blanc and Anton Mosimann. Patterson has always favoured an understated, essentially ungimmicky approach, with pure, true flavours allowed to speak up in their own right – a style of cooking that everyone can appreciate but lacks nothing in technical flourish. Opening courses are bold and bright – perhaps salmon gravad lax with horseradish ice cream and ginger caviar of crystal clarity, or chicken liver and foie gras parfait with fig for traditionalists. Thoroughbred meats and impeccably fresh fish are the foundations of main courses that gain lustre from ingenious textural balancing of their elements, so you might follow that with a masterful reworking of beef sirloin with roast potatoes, Yorkshire pudding and horseradish mayonnaise, or superb fillet of turbot with clams, fennel, orange and an invitingly fragrant lovage risotto. The dessert repertoire offers a masterclass in technical know-how, delivering such delights as coconut and lime nougat glacé with spiced pineapple, or a flavour-drenched quince and honey soufflé served with almond ice cream. A separate vegetarian menu might centre on artichoke tartlet with a poached egg and hollandaise, and wild mushroom tagliatelle with grappa sauce. Look to the sommelier for sound advice from the magisterial 400-bin wine list; service all round is irreproachable.

Awards, Accolades & welcome Schemes

4 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence