Our Inspector's View
It's fair to say that born-and-bred Geordie Kenny Atkinson's contemporary restaurant has put this previously neglected quarter of the city, in the immediate shadow of the Tyne Bridge, back on the modern map. Set within a beautifully restored, Grade 1-listed 16th-century former merchant’s townhouse, his much-accoladed, two-storey operation lights up the scene with a bare wood ambience for cocktails and modern dining, to a soundtrack of rock favourites of the past 20 years. Those signing up for the tasting menu upstairs should be prepared to receive their cutlery in one compendious clatter, as part of an experience that aims from the get-go for true distinctiveness. While acknowledging the north east, the modern British tasting menus also draw inspiration from further afield, as in dream canapés, including a parmesan churro with smoked cod's roe tart. Other potential highlights include mussels and sea purslane on baby leeks with caviar, and then an intermediate serving of Cerney Ash cheese with broccoli, confit potato, pine-nuts and shaved truffle. Meat is top-drawer, as in the meltingly tender beef fillet that comes with crumbed sweetbreads, confit shallots, dots of black garlic purée and lovage in a rich beef jus, or if at this point you'd prefer seafood, try scallop with pork belly, sweetcorn and lardo. Desserts play variations of texture and temperature, such as apple parfait sandwiched by almond tuiles and the scent of marigold alongside sweet croissant ice cream. On the other hand, a simple selection of British cheeses might be just the ticket. Proudly moulded with the letters HoT, the salted caramel petits fours are made with lovely dark bitter chocolate dusted with gold. Although there's absolutely no need, feel free to go off-piste from the carefully chosen wine pairings with something else from the excellent list that showcases Atkinson's favourites from around the world.
Facilities – at a glance
Gourmet paradise down by the riverside
- Seats: 50
- Private dining available
- On-site parking available
- Wheelchair accessible
- Accessible toilets
- Assist dogs welcome
- Days Closed: Sunday to Monday and Tuesday lunch
- Lunch served from: 12
- Lunch served until: 1.30
- Dinner served from: 6
- Dinner served until: 9
- Wines under £30: 7
- Wines over £30:
- Wines by the glass: 40
- Cuisine style: Modern British
- Vegetarian menu
Also in the Area
About The area
Discover Tyne & Wear
The metropolitan county of Tyne and Wear encompasses Newcastle-upon-Tyne, Gateshead, South Shields and Sunderland, as well as part of Hadrian’s Wall. The county is cut through by the two rivers after which it is named. The area grew prosperous on coal and shipbuilding, and buildings of Victorian grandeur reflect its heyday. George Stephenson established an ironworks here in 1826, and the first engine on the Stockton and Darlington railway was made in Newcastle.
Newcastle’s ‘new castle’ is believed to date from the 11th century, though the present keep dates from the 12th. Other ancient buildings include the cathedral and Guildhall, while contemporary constructions include the Metro, which links Newcastle to Gateshead (along with several bridges), and the Metro Centre in Gateshead, Europe’s largest indoor shopping and leisure complex.
Jarrow, five miles east of Newcastle, is remembered for the Jarrow Crusade of 1936, when 200 men marched to London to bring attention to the plight of unemployed shipbuilders. The town was also the home of monk-scholar, the Venerable Bede, whose 8th-century work, Historia Ecclesiastica Gentis Anglorum, was the first important history written about the English.
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