“Outstanding multi-course menu at a kitchen counter” - AA Inspector
LONDON W1, LONDON POSTAL DISTRICTS
Our Inspector's view
Advance through the hot dogs and champagne going on out front, and behind a curtain at the back is what feels like a secret gourmands' club, where devotees gather round a counter for an up-close interface with the sizzles and scents of a kitchen in full gear. A multi-course tasting menu chalked up in abbreviations on the board is the drill, delivering small morsels of outstanding, always surprising food. Highlights include a crab bisque with matching custard crowned with Thai basil; rhubarb-wrapped mackerel on seaweed salsa and horseradish cream; and the fascinating contrasts of ribboned squid cooked in chicken fat and topped with preserved gooseberry. Fruit with fish is a confirmed trend as when sea bass appears with elderberry, and there's also a needle-sharp clementine sauce with the pigeon. Desserts then maintain the pace by exploring apples and pears in dazzling variety, the former appearing with sorrel granita, shortbread and chamomile custard.
Facilities – at a glance
- Seats: 20
- Wheelchair accessible
- Steps for wheelchair: 3
- Accessible toilets
- Assist dogs welcome
- Closed: false
- Wines over £30: 65
- Wines by the glass: 8
- Cuisine style: Modern British
- Vegetarian menu
Also in the area
About the area
The UK's capital was founded by the Romans shortly after they invaded in 43AD. Since then it’s evolved into one of the greatest cities on earth. From a bloody, squalid history to the vanguard of fashion in the Swinging 1960s to the buzzing metropolis it is today, London has something for everyone. There are very British pursuits like the Oxford and Cambridge boat race, changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace and an impressive collection of traditional English pubs. And that’s not to mention world-renowned arts venues, galleries and museums, award-winning theatre and unrivalled shopping – all found within a few Tube stops of each other.
London’s royal history is not to be missed. Visitors can roam around one of Britain’s finest medieval castles and royal prison, and learn about the final days of Anne Boleyn at the Tower of London or, for the less bloodthirsty, visit the Queen’s London home, Buckingham Palace. Don’t miss out on exploring the capital’s Royal Parks – from St James’ Park and Hyde Park in the centre to the majestic Hampton Court and wilderness of Richmond Park in the southwest.
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