Our Inspector's View
Having breasted the billows of restaurant fashion since the 1980s, the Champignon is in its fourth decade of operations, a remarkable testament to the tenacity and dedication of David and Helen Everitt-Matthias. It has remained in the upper echelons of British gastronomy throughout, achieving its longevity without any attention-grabbing culinary stunts. Indeed, the place itself seems to blend discreetly with the row of shops it rubs shoulders with, and the interior prospect of blond wood and dove-grey, with striking artworks and trimly linened table, creates a civilised, discreet feel. David's cooking, for all its modern ingredients and techniques, retains an underlying sense of classical French cuisine. You might begin with fillet of Cornish mackerel, kohlrabi, avocado purée and caviar, or Dexter beef tartare with corned beef, wasabi mayonnaise and pickled shimeji; perhaps followed by Brecon venison with parsnip purée, baby parsnips, black pudding and bitter chocolate, or red legged partridge with turnip choucroute, walnuts and quince. Delightfully creative desserts might include frozen bergamot parfait, orange jelly, liquorice cream, or blueberry cannelloni with wood sorrel cream and yogurt sorbet. A highly distinguished wine list completes the picture.
Awards, Accolades & welcome Schemes
Facilities – at a glance
Sustained culinary excellence entering its fourth decade
- Seats: 40
- Wheelchair accessible
- Steps for wheelchair: 1
- Assist dogs welcome
- Days Closed: Sunday to Tuesday
- Lunch served from: 12.30
- Lunch served until: 1.15
- Dinner served from: 7.30
- Dinner served until: 8.30
- Wines under £30: 14
- Wines over £30:
- Wines by the glass: 14
- Cuisine style: Modern French
Also in the Area
About The area
Gloucestershire is home to a variety of landscapes. The Cotswolds, a region of gentle hills, valleys and gem-like villages, roll through the county. To their west is the Severn Plain, watered by Britain’s longest river, and characterised by orchards and farms marked out by hedgerows that blaze with mayflower in the spring, and beyond the Severn are the Forest of Dean and the Wye Valley.
Throughout the county you are never far away from the past. Neolithic burial chambers are widespread, and so too are the remains of Roman villas, many of which retain the fine mosaic work produced by Cirencester workshops. There are several examples of Saxon building, while in the Stroud valleys abandoned mills and canals are the mark left by the Industrial Revolution. Gloucestershire has always been known for its abbeys, but most of them have disappeared or lie in ruins. However, few counties can equal the churches that remain here. These are many and diverse, from the ‘wool’ churches in Chipping Campden and Northleach, to the cathedral at Gloucester, the abbey church at Tewkesbury or remote St Mary’s, standing alone near Dymock.
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