Our Inspector's View

Having breasted the billows of restaurant fashion since the 1980s, the Champignon is in its fourth decade of operations, a remarkable testament to the tenacity and dedication of David and Helen Everitt-Matthias. It has remained in the upper echelons of British gastronomy throughout, achieving its longevity without any attention-grabbing culinary stunts. Indeed, the place itself seems to blend discreetly with the row of shops it rubs shoulders with, and the interior prospect of blond wood and dove-grey, with striking artworks and trimly linened table, creates a civilised, discreet feel. David's cooking, for all its modern ingredients and techniques, retains an underlying sense of classical French cuisine. You might begin with fillet of Cornish mackerel, kohlrabi, avocado purée and caviar, or Dexter beef tartare with corned beef, wasabi mayonnaise and pickled shimeji; perhaps followed by Brecon venison with parsnip purée, baby parsnips, black pudding and bitter chocolate, or red legged partridge with turnip choucroute, walnuts and quince. Delightfully creative desserts might include frozen bergamot parfait, orange jelly, liquorice cream, or blueberry cannelloni with wood sorrel cream and yogurt sorbet. A highly distinguished wine list completes the picture.

Awards, Accolades & welcome Schemes

4 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence