“Discover refined contemporary dining in a grand country house” - AA Inspector
Our Inspector's view
An extensive kitchen garden and a smokehouse in the 17-acre grounds of this handsome Edwardian mansion in the Wye Valley attest to the culinary focus at Llangoed. Originally Jacobean, Clough Williams-Ellis (of Portmeirion fame) rebuilt the place in the early 20th century, so expect luxurious lounges full of original features, fine furniture, and original artworks by Whistler and Augustus John. Sam Bowser and his team put organic pickings from the garden into various tersely-worded menus (including vegan/gluten free versions) of polished modern British cooking. What arrives is savvy, sophisticated and complex stuff, including fashionably foraged and fermented ingredients – perhaps langoustine with coffee bisque and foie gras, or beef tartare with oyster, brioche and egg yolk, then a main course matching suckling pork with kimchi, shiitake and bok choi. Presentation is delightful, and there's no lack of invention among desserts either; a dish starring rhubarb, passionfruit and ginger, for example, or mango with mascarpone and ravioli.
Facilities – at a glance
- Seats: 40
- Private dining available
- On-site parking available
- Wheelchair accessible
- Steps for wheelchair: 1
- Accessible toilets
- Open all year
- Lunch served from: 12
- Lunch served until: 2
- Dinner served from: 7
- Dinner served until: 9
- Wines under £30: 20
- Wines over £30:
- Wines by the glass: 13
- Cuisine style: Modern British
- Vegetarian menu
Also in the area
About The area
The largest unitary authority in Wales, Powys covers an area of approximately 2,000 square miles. Much of that is mountainous because it actually has the lowest population density of all the Welsh counties.
This much wild, empty space is perhaps best typified by the International Dark Sky Reserve in the Brecon Beacons National Park, one of only eleven in the world. The absence of light pollution creates an exceptional spot for star gazing. You won’t find any cities in Powys, just villages and smaller-sized towns, but that’s the way its inhabitants like it.
Newtown, the largest settlement, is perhaps most famous for being the birthplace of Robert Owen, the founder of the Co-operative movement. Brecon is a market town set on the edge of the Brecon Beacons National Park, while the pretty Victorian spa town of Llandrindod Wells boasts the National Cycle Collection. Elsewhere, Hay-on-Wye hosts a major literary festival every year.
Powys is liberally scattered with castles, burial mounds, hill forts, and other historic markers; Powis Castle, near Welshpool is probably one of the most impressive. And for walking enthusiasts, it’s not just the Brecon Beacons on offer – the Elan Valley describes itself as the ‘Welsh Lake District’.
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