Our Inspector's view

Built in 1913 for a local brewing family, Merchants Manor, a white-fronted house on a hill, retains a pleasingly historic air, with its lofty-ceilinged interiors preserving much of their Edwardian splendour. Bright interiors create a cheery ambience and the Rastella dining room adds to an all-round feel of well-being with white linen and vintage candles. Local suppliers buttress the menus, as does the hard-working wood-fired oven – affectionately nicknamed Bertha – and what emerges is a roster of smartly presented, modern dishes full of precision and inspiration. To start, there could be confit Newlyn mackerel with Alexanders and apple, followed by locally landed monkfish with porcini and potato, or rare breed pork cheek teamed with marmalade and brassicas. Steaks from the grill are a good bet too, served with ale-pickled mushrooms, onion rings and smoked tomato BBQ sauce. Finish, perhaps, with Milk and Honey, an assemblage of milk sorbet, Cornish honey, lemon posset and caramelised white chocolate.

Awards, accolades and Welcome Schemes

3 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence