Our Inspector's View

The ‘restaurant with rooms’ concept at Moor Hall is rather more evolved than the usual traditional approach consisting of a few modest rooms bolted onto a notable eatery. The seven rooms here – as plush as anyone could reasonably ask for – form part of a megabucks boutique transformation of a 16th-century manor into a foodie destination. It comprises a chic restaurant and state-of-the-art open kitchen in a modernist extension with a soaring raftered roof and glass walls. With all this investment, the culinary draw has to be a biggie, so rest assured that the showstopping cooking of Mark Birchall, whose time at Simon Rogan’s L’Enclume means you will not be disappointed. Expect virtuoso creations built on ingredients that can’t be bettered, executed with unsurpassed attention to detail and a highly evolved way of doing things. The eight-course taster is served at both lunch and dinner, while a four-course lunch option sorts out diners whose time, or perhaps budget, is more limited. Home-grown carrots served in multifarious textures come with ramsons and sea buckthorn cream, all turbocharged with Doddington cheese ‘snow’. Next up, crab and turnip broth of remarkable clarity of flavour arrives with anise leaves, hyssop and sunflower seed cream. Elsewhere, the technique is seriously impressive in a combination of turbot, cooked on the bone and pointed up with plump mussels in a light cream sauce, plus sea vegetables and silky artichoke purée, while Holstein Friesian beef is showcased in another complex workout, alongside barbecued celeriac, mustard and shallot. Desserts, too, are shot through with creativity, among them Worcester Pearmain apple served as terrine, ice cream and gel in the company of woodruff cream, birch sap and marigold. The wine list is a stunner with a knowledgeable sommelier team to guide the way. There’s also a more casual dining venue and bar in a raftered, rustic-chic barn, awarded two AA Rosettes.

Awards, Accolades & welcome Schemes

5 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence