Orwells

“A Georgian country pub with the fine dining ethos” - AA Inspector
HENLEY-ON-THAMES, OXFORDSHIRE

Our Inspector's view
The whitewashed Georgian pub stands on an Oxfordshire country road in the unruffled environs of Binfield Heath. Liam and Ryan Simpson-Trotman have transformed the place into a beacon of modern British gastronomy since they opened the place over 11 years ago. Today, Ryan heads up front of house and Liam continues to hold the fort in the kitchen. They’re around 75% self-sufficient in fresh produce in the summer months, and the emphasis is very much on dining. Perhaps try an opener of flavour-drenched, lightly cooked mackerel with pickled cucumber and ozone-fresh sea veg. Acknowledgement of the original pub ethos is evident in a dish that builds a slew of shredded ham hock with a runny egg yolk, bitter endive and dots of fiery mustard on an underlay of crumbled black pudding. For main, there could be salt baked celeriac or a Bajan-spiced lamp rump. The Mill Lane honey sponge is a good shout to finish on.
Awards, accolades and Welcome Schemes
Facilities – at a glance
Children welcome
Credit cards accepted
Gluten free menu
Private dining
Tasting menu
Features
- Seats: 35
- Private dining available
- On-site parking available
- Wheelchair accessible
- Accessible toilets
- Closed: 2 weeks beginning January, 2 weeks beginning September
- Wines under £30: 15
- Wines over £30: 110
- Wines by the glass: 14
- Cuisine style: Modern British
- Vegetarian menu
Also in the area
About the area
Discover Oxfordshire
Located at the heart of England, Oxfordshire enjoys a rich heritage and surprisingly varied scenery. Its landscape encompasses open chalk downland and glorious beechwoods, picturesque rivers and attractive villages set in peaceful farmland. The countryside in the northwest of Oxfordshire seems isolated by comparison, more redolent of the north of England, with its broad views, undulating landscape and dry-stone walls. The sleepy backwaters of Abingdon, Wallingford, Wantage, Watlington and Witney reveal how Oxfordshire’s old towns evolved over the centuries, while Oxford’s imposing streets reflect the beauty and elegance of ‘that sweet city with her dreaming spires.’ Fans of the fictional sleuth Inspector Morse will recognise many Oxford landmarks described in the books and used in the television series.
The county demonstrates how the strong influence of humans has shaped this part of England over the centuries. The Romans built villas in the pretty river valleys that thread their way through Oxfordshire, the Saxons constructed royal palaces here, and the Normans left an impressive legacy of castles and churches. The philanthropic wool merchants made their mark too, and many of their fine buildings serve as a long-lasting testimony to what they did for the good of the local community.
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