Ynyshir Restaurant and Rooms
“Superlative cookery setting trends rather than following.” - AA Inspector
EGLWYS FACH, CEREDIGION
Our Inspector's view
Set in beautifully landscaped grounds within a 2,000 RSPB nature reserve, Ynyshir was once owned by Queen Victoria and is surrounded by stunning mountain scenery. But that’s where the 19th-century utopia ends as this previously whitewashed building is now painted black, fire pits burn outside and DJs play throughout the day and evening. Ynyshir has long been on the foodie trail, however under the direction of Gareth Ward it has now moved to the forefront of the UK scene. Ward has redefined what is possible in terms of high quality ingredients, with chefs pickling, salting and fermenting, as well as preserving fruits, foraged leaves and berries. The stylish room is darkly comfortable, with exposed stone walls and sheepskins to soften the look, diners facing the open kitchen to watch all the action. Around 30 courses served over four hours, this is pure gastronomic theatre, with a DJ making sure the soundtrack ebbs and flows with the cooking. A strong Asian influence results in umami-rich flavour profiles through to the desserts. This is immersive, cutting-edge dining at its sharpest and the pace is relentless with dish after dish sent out, mostly mesmerising single bites leaving you wanting more.
Facilities – at a glance
Credit cards accepted
- Seats: 18
- Private dining available
- On-site parking available
- Wheelchair accessible
- Steps for wheelchair: 2
- Accessible toilets
- Assist dogs welcome
- Closed: one week April, 2 weeks Summer, one week October, 25 December to 8 January
- Wines over £30: 60
- Wines by the glass: 50
- Cuisine style: Modern British
Also in the area
About the area
The name ‘Ceredigion’ takes a bit of explanation. The town of Cardigan gives its name to the surrounding bay, but the county now uses the Welsh word for Cardiganshire – Ceredigion, pronounced with a ‘dig’. Cardigan Bay itself is a large inlet of the Irish Sea and stretches from Bardsey Island to Strumble Head. With many beaches and a unique marine life, it’s the place to come to spot bottlenose dolphins, porpoises and Atlantic grey seals. The area is a Special Area of Conservation (SAC), designated under European law to protect its species and habitats. The Ceredigion coastal path is also a major attraction.
Much of the surrounding land is fertile farmland, dotted with towns and seaside resorts such as Fishguard, New Quay, Aberaeron, Aberystwyth, Borth, Aberdyfi, Barmouth and Porthmadog. It’s also a section of coast that major rivers flow into, including the Afon Glaslyn, Teifi, Rheidol, Dyfi, Aeron, Dysynni and Mawddach. Historically, the area supported a strong maritime industry. Cardigan was a major hub, once having more than 300 ships registered in its port, seven times as many as Cardiff. Due to being something of a backwater, in many ways this area remains charmingly unspoilt. The nearby heather-clad Preseli Hills are an additional delight.
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