A circuit including Hele Bay and Comyn

Originally a market town and fishing port, the hilly town of Ilfracombe developed as a holiday resort in the mid-19th century, with a further boost provided by the coming of the London and South Western Railway in 1874. Ilfracombe is a real mix of faded grandeur and contemporary development – epitomised by Damien Hirst’s controversial steel and bronze Verity sculpture, which has stood guard over the harbour mouth since 2012, beneath St Nicholas Chapel, a 15th-century votive chapel for fisherman and sailors set on Lantern Hill. This bizarre dichotomy can be enjoyed from Hillsborough, the site of an Iron Age hill fort, on this walk.

The North Devon Voluntary Marine Conservation Area extends for 15 miles (24km) from Hangman Point on the edge of Exmoor in the east to Woolacombe Sand in the west. It includes the section encountered on this walk, from the cliff base out to the 20m-depth contour. The rocky foreshores of this part of the coast, largely inaccessible on foot, are home to some of richest plant and animal communities in the country, thriving at a point where the colder North Atlantic waters meet warmer southern waters. Marine species found here include the wonderfully named snakelocks anenome and edible periwinkle.

The sheltered beach at Hele Bay, today overlooked by holiday caravans, is very much the domain of the bucket-and-spade brigade. But 200 years ago the scene would have been very different, when coal from South Wales was landed on the shore to feed the lime kilns that once sat at the back of the beach to produce fertiliser for local farmers. There are records of three ships still landing coal here from the start of the 20th century right up to World War II.

Walk along the right side of the harbour, soon passing through the Marine Drive car park. At the top exit, where the road narrows, bear left downhill on a path (note a small blue Coast Path sign on a lamppost).

At a junction of paths, follow Coast Path signs half left on a tarmac way to pass the skate park. Where the path ahead descends to Rapparee Cove, bear right steeply uphill, alongside a hedge. Meet a fence at the top, and bear left through a barrier to ascend through woodland. At the next junction turn right as signed (yellow arrow and acorn).

At the next crossroads follow the Coast Path left up steps into Hillsborough Local Nature Reserve. Follow Coast Path signs, climbing steadily (a grassy path running parallel on the left also leads to Point 4), eventually enjoying views over the Hele Valley. The path swings back towards the sea to reach a bench with excellent harbour views.

Keep following Coast Path signs, to descend eventually through woodland. Turn sharp right downhill just before a viewpoint above Broadstrand Beach. Zig-zag downhill to reach the promenade at Hele Bay. Turn right, then right again up Beach Road to the A399.

Cross over with care, and head along a narrow, wooded footpath to pass through the grounds of The Old Corn Mill and Tea Room. Keep ahead through a gate and go up a narrow track to a lane. Turn right.

Where the lane bears right keep straight ahead, signed to Comyn, soon turning left up a lane and climbing steadily. The lane reduces to a track; where it bears left, keep ahead through a gate on a narrow, hedged path – Cat Lane – to emerge through a gate by houses at Comyn. Turn right to reach a path junction.

Turn right, signed to Ilfracombe. Pass Chambercombe Manor (open from April to the end of September, and said to be haunted). The lane climbs gently out of this hidden valley to meet a road on a bend among houses. Keep ahead and follow the road downhill to the A399.

Cross over and turn left. Turn first right, opposite The Thatched Inn (an unusual building with outside seating), and follow the road to the Marine Drive car park and back to the harbour.