A stroll through Launceston

Launceston – easily bypassed today by those driving along the A30 – is well worth detailed exploration. It was the chief town of Cornwall during medieval times, and the county capital until 1835. The high hill at the heart of the town was probably fortified as early as the Bronze Age, but today, the striking remains of a Norman castle survive (now in the care of English Heritage) and dominate the surrounding scene. There was also an important monastic settlement here, and Launceston is the only walled town in the county. The legacy of this fascinating history is one of the most intriguing and varied townscapes in the county.

A rich history

The town square – where the walk starts – has several fine buildings, including the Georgian White Hart Hotel with its 12th-century doorway, said to have been plundered many years ago from the ruins of the 12th-century Augustinian Priory of St Thomas (the latter can be visited at waypoint 4 of the walk). Other fine Georgian buildings can be seen at the bottom of Castle Street in the shape of elegant Eagle House, now a hotel, and Lawrence House a little further along the street. On the High Street evidence of the town’s earlier history can be seen in the slightly leaning medieval façades of numbers 11 and 13, slate-hung and painted cream, and with an overhung third storey. Partway down Southgate Street, in view of one of Launceston’s glories, Southgate Arch – a sole survivor of the medieval town’s gateways – is Ching’s Alley. The name celebrates a family of 19th-century wine and spirit merchants. An information board just inside the alley records some fascinating tales. The birthplace of Launceston’s great literary son, the poet Charles Causley (1917–2003), is passed at the start of Riverside.

Literally towering over these layers of history is Launceston’s striking castle, a round tower built on a natural mound, inside an earlier shell keep. Most of what remains today dates from the 13th century, when the Norman building was remodelled under Richard, Earl of Cornwall. The castle has never seen active service, but is an outstanding example of medieval fortification. An exhibition in the entrance building details the history of the site. Launceston is linked to the ruins of one of Devon’s largest castles at Okehampton by the 24-mile (38km) Two Castles Trail.

Start your walk by the war memorial in the town square. Leave the square by its north side (alongside the Co-op) and go down the High Street. At the bottom, turn right along Church Street, then cross over into Southgate Street and walk towards Southgate Arch, passing a number of interesting buildings.

From the Southgate Street side of the arch go left down the alleyway of Blindhole, then follow the lane as it bears round left and passes the old market (Market House Arcade) on the left. Bear right to pass one of Launceston’s finest buildings, the Church of St Mary Magdalene.

Follow Northgate Street as it curves left and downhill into Castle Street. At the bottom of the hill, on the left, is the Eagle House Hotel, but bear right to pass the National Trust’s Lawrence House. Around 20yds (18m) further down the street, go down steps on the left, between old cottages and a new development, to reach the bottom of Tower Street. Cross Dockacre Road and go down St Thomas Hill, then turn left at the bottom and cross the busy main road with great care.

Turn right, keep ahead over the traffic lights, then turn left along Riverside. On the left is the Church of St Thomas; behind this lie the ruins of the Priory of St Thomas. Nearby, spanning the River Kensey, is a medieval packhorse bridge known as Prior’s Bridge. Just beyond the bridge, look for a plaque on the right, celebrating the poet Charles Causley. Keep walking past a bowling green, and cross a bridge over the Launceston Steam Railway, which runs to New Mills. The track originally continued to Padstow, but closed in 1962.

Turn left at a T-junction. Go past a row of cottages, then, at the corner of Tredydan Road, keep straight ahead along a surfaced track, through a gate into a lane. Continue into Wooda Lane.

At a bend opposite cottages, go right and through a gate. Follow a path in almost a straight line for about 0.5 miles (800m), over stiles and through fields below Launceston Castle, without crossing the stream, to reach a stile and gate by a bungalow. Turn left to cross the stream and go over a stile. Turn left again and go uphill to join Western Road.

Continue to the busy junction with St Thomas Road. On the right is the handsome Gothic Guildhall with its wooden Black Jacks that strike a quarterly bell. Opposite is the entrance to the town’s ultimate glory, its Norman castle. Continue up Western Road to the town square.