Across Dartmoor to Brent Tor

Anyone exploring western Dartmoor cannot fail to notice a conical peak, topped with a tower, protruding high above the rolling fields and woodlands towards the Cornish border. This strange natural formation is Brent Tor and, surprisingly, has nothing to do with the granite tors of Dartmoor. It is a remnant of the mass of lava that poured out onto the seabed here more than 300 million years ago, when the area was a shallow sea. The softer rocks around have been eroded away over the millennia, leaving behind this extraordinary landmark 1,100ft (334m) above sea level. The name is thought to derive either from the Anglo-Saxon brene, meaning ‘beacon’ (to burn) or from the Celtic bryn (hill or mound). Lying just inside the National Park boundary, it provides the perfect focus for a relaxing exploration of this quiet corner of west Devon.

The 13th-century Church of St Michael de Rupe (‘of the rock’) was originally built by Robert Giffard, Lord of the Manor of Lamerton and Whitchurch, around 1130. Rebuilt towards the end of the 13th century, the 40ft (12.25m) tower was added during the 15th century, and it is the fourthsmallest complete parish church in England. Occasional services are held at this atmospheric spot, and the views from here are quite breathtaking.

It is said that while the church was being built the Devil himself hurled stones from the top of the hill on to the unfortunate parishioners below. Another legend tells of how a wealthy 14th-century merchant vowed to build a church here in gratitude to St Michael for saving one of his cargoes from a storm at sea. The Devil destroyed the building work every night, so the merchant called on St Michael to help again. The saint chased the Devil away and in return the church was dedicated to St Michael.

North Brentor was added to the parish in 1880, and all burials then took place at Christ Church in the village, since the soil on top of Brent Tor was too thin to accommodate a decent grave.

Walk straight ahead from your car towards Brent Tor, which positively invites you to visit it. Where the lane bears right turn left along an unfenced lane (dead end sign). Go gently downhill to pass Blacknor Park (left), then a cattle grid. The lane becomes rocky before passing Wortha Mill and crossing the disused railway line and River Burn. The track runs steeply uphill, before levelling off.

At the next T-junction of tracks turn left to pass South Brentor Farm and a lane on the right, and keep straight on slightly uphill – under beech trees – to pass ‘Hillside’ on the left.

Pass Brennen Cottage (left); a few paces later the lane bends sharp left. Turn right through a gate and keep ahead up the right edge of the field on a permitted footpath. Turn right through a gate at the top, later bearing left going steeply uphill to reach Brent Tor church.

Retrace your steps to Point 2, and turn left. Pass through the gate at the track end and cross the next field. Cross a stile in the top corner, and in the next field go diagonally right to pass through a kissing gate. Cross the next field and through a gateway. Keep the hedgebank on the left and pass through a gate.

Follow the hedged track, then keep ahead past houses to meet the lane and then a T-junction. Turn right to reach the war memorial.

Turn right slightly downhill to pass the phone box, church and village hall. Follow the lane as it bears right to cross the old railway line. You can see the old station complete with platform canopy below you to the right.

Pass over the cattle grid on to the open moor, and up the lane. Where the lane bends right just past the gateway to Wortha Farm, cut left over the edge of Gibbet Hill on an indistinct grassy track. (The lane leads back to the car, but this is a more pleasant route). Once over the crest of the hill you will reach a crossroads of paths; turn right to return to your ca