Aldborough and the River Ure

The River Ure shows a lively character in Wensleydale, tumbling over cascades particularly near the village of Wensley. Thirty-five miles (56km) downstream it gives a more sedate impression, winding in leisurely fashion through a broad flood plain where Boroughbridge and the adjacent village of Aldborough are situated. When a river floods and overspills its bank, the water swiftly loses impetus and begins to drop its load of sediment, so levees often form naturally. For close to half its length this walk follows an embankment or levee above the river. The River Ure is navigable above Boroughbridge thanks to the Milby Cut, a short canal completed in 1789 to bypass the weir. (Navigation continues as far as Ripon.) The entrance of the Cut and the lock gates are seen across the river near Point 5.

Aldborough was an important Roman, or perhaps more properly Romano-British, centre. Known as Isurium, or Isurium Brigantium, it was the principal town of the Brigantes, the largest British tribe. The Romans subdued the Brigantes in the last quarter of the 1st century ad and established Isurium as an administrative centre.

Much of the Roman site is overlain by present-day Aldborough. The boundaries of the village largely coincide with the ancient perimeter. Later development means that relatively little of the fabric of the Romano-British town survives, apart from a small area at the southwest end of the village, managed by English Heritage. At the end of the site are two superb mosaic floors, still in situ.

At the start of the walk, the Battle Cross, once in Boroughbridge town centre, marks the Battle of Boroughbridge. This took place on 16th March 1322, between the forces of King Edward II and an alliance of rebellious barons led by Thomas of Lancaster. A royal commander had control of the bridge, forcing the rebels to stand and fight. They were roundly defeated, ending the rebellion.

Though the Roman period attracts most interest, there’s much more to the history of the area. The modern A1 is just the latest form of a very ancient route, long known as the Great North Road. Near the A1, just west of Boroughbridge, are the Devil’s Arrows, three exceptionally impressive standing stones usually dated to the Bronze Age. The smallest is 18ft (5.5m) tall, the other two around 22ft (6.7m). The stones, which came from near Knaresborough, were probably once part of a larger row or alignment similar to those at Avebury in Witshire.

The name ‘ Devil’s Arrows’ is of relatively recent origin. The story that sprang up tells that the Devil had a grudge against Aldborough so he climbed a nearby hill with a great bow, chanting, ‘Borobrig keep out o’th way, for Audboro’ town I will drag down.’ However, his shots fell well short.

Walk down the road through the village, with the Battle Cross and the church to your right. Continue along a brick wall and tall yew hedge, which conceal Aldborough Hall from the road. Pass a small green and continue into Dunsforth Road.

At the end of the yew hedge turn left on a surfaced track, with open fields on the right. Soon there’s a view of Aldborough Hall on the left, and then there are fields both sides.

At the end of the metalled track bear left on a clear path along the top of the embankment. The river soon appears on your right. Go through a kissing gate and follow the path around a big bend in the river. Its course becomes straighter as you pass Ellenthorpe Hall on the opposite bank.

About 0.5 miles (800m) further on pass the entrance to the Milby Cut, with its lock gates, on the far side of the river. Continue for another 400yds (366m) until the way ahead is emphatically blocked by a metal fence and locked gate.

Go down to the left and follow the path between fields, to emerge through a kissing gate out onto the road. Turn left (or right to Boroughbridge car park) to return to the starting point and your car.