Along the coast from Polruan

There are parts of Cornwall so encompassed by the sea that they seem genuinely out of this modern world. The sea, rather than the dual carriageway, is still their major highway. The village of Polruan on the estuary of the River Fowey is one such place. The village can be reached by land only along fairly minor roads that detour at some length from Cornwall’s main spinal highways. Yet Polruan lies only a few hundred yards across the estuary from the bustling town of Fowey, and a regular passenger ferry runs between the two.

Old Cornwall

Prehistoric settlers found a natural refuge on the narrow headland on which Polruan stands. Christian ‘saints’ and medieval worshippers set up chantries and chapels in the sheltered hollows; merchants prospered from the lucrative sea trade into Fowey’s natural harbour. During the wars of the 14th and 15th centuries, Fowey ships harried foreign vessels, and because of their outstanding seamanship, earned themselves the admiring sobriquet of ‘Fowey Gallants’. The entrance to the estuary was protected from attack by a chain barrier that could be winched across the river’s mouth from blockhouses on either bank. In peacetime the Gallants continued to raid shipping of all types until Edward IV responded to complaints from foreign merchants, and several English ones, by confiscating ships and by having the protective chain removed. Resilient as always, the seamen of Fowey and Polruan turned their hands successfully to fishing and smuggling instead.

The route of this walk starts from Polruan. It wanders through peaceful countryside. At its heart lies the splendid Lanteglos Church of St Winwaloe, or St Wyllow. The second part of the walk leads back to the sea, to the steep headland of Pencarrow and to the dramatic amphitheatre of Lantic Bay. From here, the coastal footpath leads airily back to Polruan.

Walk up from the Quay at Polruan, then turn left along East Street, by a telephone box and a seat. Go right, up steps, signposted ‘Hall Walk’. Go left at the next junction, then keep along the path ahead, eventually passing a National Trust sign, ‘North Downs’.

Continue forward, eventually turning right at a T-junction with a track, then in just a few paces, bear off left along a path, signposted ‘Pont and Bodinnick’. Ignore side paths to reach a wooden gate onto a lane. Don’t go through the gate, but bear left and go through a footpath gate. Follow a path, established by the National Trust, and eventually descend steep wooden steps.

At a T-junction with a track, turn right and climb uphill. It’s worth diverting left at the T-junction to visit Pont. On the main route, reach a lane. Go left for a few paces then, on a bend by Churchtown Farm, bear off right through a gate signed ‘Footpath to Church’. Climb steadily to reach the Church of St Winwaloe.

Turn left outside the church and follow a narrow lane. At a T-junction, just beyond Lantic Bay car park, cross the road and go through a gate, then turn right along the field-edge on a path established by the National Trust, to go through another gate. Turn left along the field-edge.

At the fence corner, bear left towards a gate. Just in front of the gate, turn right onto the coast path and descend steeply. (To continue to Pencarrow Head go left through the gate and follow the path to the headland. From here the coast path can be rejoined.) Follow the coast path for about 1.25 miles (2km), keeping to the cliff edge, ignoring any junctions.

Where the cliff path ends, go through a gate to a road junction by Furze Park. Cross the road, then go down School Lane. Turn right at ‘Speakers Corner’, then turn left down Fore Street to reach the Quay at Polruan.