Bigbury-on-Sea and Burgh Island

The broad, sandy beaches and dunes at Bigbury-on-Sea and Bantham, at the mouth of the River Avon southwest of Kingsbridge, attract hundreds of holidaymakers every summer, drawn by the appeal of sun, sand and sea. There’s no doubt that this is a perfect spot for a family day out. Gone are the days of the 16th or 17th centuries when Bigbury was merely famous for its catches of pilchards. But there’s something else appealing about this part of the South Devon coast. Just off Bigbury beach, 307yds (282m) from shore, lies craggy Burgh Island, with its famous hotel gazing at the mainland. This extraordinary island is completely surrounded by the sea at high tide but is accessible via the unique, weird and wonderful sea tractor that ploughs its way through the waters.

The island was known as la Burgh in the 15th century, and later Borough Island. There was a chapel dedicated to St Michael on its summit in 1411. The remains of a ‘huer’s hut’ at the top of the island – a fisherman’s lookout – is evidence of the times when pilchard fishing was a mainstay of life here, hence the building of the Pilchard Inn, housed in one of the original fisherman’s cottages. But it is the island’s more recent history that is so fascinating. It was bought in 1929 by wealthy industrialist Archibald Nettlefold, who built the Burgh Island Hotel, much as we see it today. He ran it as a guest house for friends and celebrities, and it became a highly fashionable venue in the 1930s. Noel Coward was among the visitors and it is thought that Edward, Prince of Wales and Wallis Simpson escaped from the limelight here; but the island’s most famous connection has to be with Agatha Christie. Two of her books – Evil Under the Sun and And Then There Were None – were written here, and the influence of the hotel and its location on her writing is clear. By the mid-1980s the hotel had fallen into disrepair, and two London fashion consultants bought the island and restored the hotel to its original art deco glory, complete with the famous Palm Court and authentic Twenties cocktail bar. The hotel has since changed hands again and has undergone further extensive restoration in art deco style.

From the car park entrance follow coast path signs right, then left towards the road, cross over and continue on South West Coast Path. Go through a kissing gate and turn right uphill, passing through two big gates, to reach a path junction near Mount Folly Farm.

Turn left along a gritty track (signed ‘Ringmore’). At the field top is a path junction; go through the kissing gate and keep ahead downhill, signed ‘Ringmore’, with a fence right. Pass through a metal gate, drop past a kissing gate, keep ahead to another on a farm track and walk straight up the next field, crossing a stile on to a lane.

Cross over, following signs for Ringmore, through a metal gate. Walk down into the next combe, keeping the hedgebank right. Go through a gate at the bottom and cross the stream on big boulders, then keep straight ahead, uphill, through a plantation and gate on to a narrow path between a fence and hedge.

Pass through a kissing gate, bear right then turn immediately left uphill to a path junction; pass through the kissing gate and follow the track to Ringmore. Turn right at the lane, then left at the church to find the Journey’s End Inn on the right.

From the pub turn right down the narrow lane which gives way to a footpath. It winds round gardens to meet a tarmac lane. Turn left downhill. Walk straight on down the track, eventually passing Lower Manor Farm, and keep going down past the ‘National Trust Ayrmer Cove’ notice. After a small gate and stream crossing keep straight on at a path junction.

Pass through a kissing gate and walk towards the cove on a grassy path above the combe (left). Pass through a gate and cross a stile; a second stile gains the beach.

Follow coast path signs (‘Challaborough’) left over a small footbridge then climb very steeply uphill to the cliff top and great views over Burgh Island. The cliffs are unstable here – take care. The path leads to Challaborough – basically one huge holiday park.

Turn right along the beach road and pick up the track uphill along the coast towards Bigbury-on-Sea. Go straight on to meet the tarmac road, then bear right on the coast path to the car park.