Bursledon and the River Hamble

Hamble estuary, between Bursledon and Southampton Water, is one of the longest and busiest in Britain. The river has a long history of human activity from the first Saxon settlers, who used it as a route to the fertile areas inland, to its current status as one of Britain’s premier yachting centre. Today, this stretch of river is filled with yachts and pleasure craft, but between the 14th and early 19th century both Hamble-le-Rice (its formal name) and Bursledon were major centres for naval shipbuilding.

The valley provided a rich supply of timber for warships, the ironworks at nearby Hungerford Bottom supplied essential fastenings and the bend in the river at Bursledon offered the necessary shelter for the Hamble to be ideal for this vital industry. At its peak during the Napoleonic Wars, the Elephant Yard, next to The Jolly Sailor pub, built the 74-gun HMS Elephant, Nelson’s flagship at the Battle of Copenhagen. Two great local shipbuilders were George Parsons, who built the Elephant, and Philemon Ewer. The best-known ship to be built at Hamble was the Grace Dieu for Henry V in the 15th century. It was at Hamble Common in 1545 that Henry VIII watched in horror as his flagship, the Mary Rose, sank with the loss of 700 men just off the coast.

The six tiny Victory Cottages you pass in Lower Swanwick, near the present-day Moody’s Yard, were built in the late 18th century for shipyard workers. The bustling marinas and moorings at Bursledon, best viewed from the terrace of The Jolly Sailor, have only appeared in the last 70 years.

Today, Hamble and Old Bursledon are a delight to explore. Hamble has a twisting main street, lined with pretty Georgian buildings, leading down to the Quay with lovely river views. Old Bursledon has a High Street but no shops, just peaceful lanes dotted with interesting buildings, in particular the timberframed Dolphin, a former pub.

From the quayside car park, walk to the pontoon and take the passenger ferry across the estuary to Warsash (weather permitting; for details and fares, visit hambleferry.co.uk). Turn left along the raised gravel path beside the estuary and mudflats and then cross a footbridge and continue to a gravelled parking area.

Follow the tarmac path through a boatyard and turn left, following the painted lines on tarmac and in front of the marina office, and rejoin the riverside path. Go through a kissing gate. Keep ahead at a lane, pass Victory Cottages on your right, and continue to the A27.

Turn left, pass Swanwick Marina, and cross Bursledon Bridge. (Turn right before the bridge to visit Bursledon Brickworks.) Pass under the railway, turn left into Church Lane, then fork left into Station Road. Turn left into the station car park, following signs for The Jolly Sailor. Climb a steep path to the road. Turn left at the junction, then left again, and descend steps to the pub.

Return along the lane and fork left along the High Street into Old Bursledon. Pause at the viewpoint at Hacketts Marsh, then bear left at the telephone box along the High Street. Pass The Vine Inn and Salterns Lane, then, at a right bend, bear off left by Thatched Cottage (although note that it is not thatched) along a footpath.

Join a metalled lane beside the drive to the Coach House then, as the lane curves right, keep ahead beside a house called Woodlands, following the footpath downhill to cross a stream via a footbridge. Proceed uphill through woodland (Mallards Moor). At a junction of paths on the woodland fringe, bear left with the wider bridleway, then at a concrete road bear right, and soon after go left to join a fenced bridleway.

Cross a railway bridge and soon reach a road. Keep left round a sharp left-hand bend. Look out for a waymarked footpath on your right, next to an oil pipeline compound, and follow this straight path through a kissing gate and behind houses for 0.5 miles (800m).

Join a metalled path and keep ahead past modern housing and a children’s play area to a road. Follow Hamble House Gardens out to the High Street and turn left. At the roundabout, bear right down Lower High Street back to the quay and the car park.