Discovering Hawes and Hardraw

For many people, Hawes means two things – Wensleydale cheese and motorcyclists. The bikers use the town as a base at summer weekends and bank holidays, enjoying a friendly drink in the pubs and spectacular rides on the surrounding roads. However, it is the Wensleydale Creamery that attracts other visitors. Just above the car park in Gayle Lane, the Creamery offers tours and tastings, as well as the chance to buy traditional Wensleydale cheese.

Cheese has been made in Wensleydale since French monks brought the skill here in 1150. After centuries of farm production, a factory was started in Hawes in 1897. It was saved from closure in the 1930s by local man Kit Calvert, and again in 1992, when the local managers bought the creamery from Dairy Crest. It is now a thriving business and a vital part of the Hawes economy.

Force of Nature

The walk gives you the chance – which you should take – to visit the famous Hardraw Force, a 90ft (27m) waterfall in a deep and narrow alley. There is a modest entrance charge, payable in the Green Dragon Inn in Hardraw village, and a short, pleasant walk to the falls. Despite appearances, what you see isn't entirely natural. On 12 July 1889 an unprecedented deluge on the hill above caused a wall of water to descend Hardraw Beck and through the valley, destroying buildings in the village and washing away bridges. It also devastated the waterfall, reducing it to a mudslide. After seeing to the clearing up in the village and the welfare of his tenants, the local landowner, Lord Wharncliffe, arranged for his workmen to reconstruct the lip of the fall, pinning together the blocks of shattered stone. This he did so successfully that today's visitors have no idea of the disaster that happened more than a century ago.

Bands in the Valley

On the way to and from Hardraw Force, you will pass the circular bandstand for the annual Hardraw Scar Brass Band Contest, usually held in September. It was founded in 1881, and is reputed to be the second oldest brass band competition in the world. Bands from throughout the North of England – and beyond – compete in the championship, cheered on by supporters who crowd the valley floor and hillsides of this natural amphitheatre.

Old Ropes – and New

From the tiny village of Sedbusk, near the end of the walk, came the area's first-known rope maker, John Brenkley, who died in 1725. The tradition is continued today in Hawes by W R Outhwaite and Son in their Hawes Ropeworks. Visitors can see work in progress on ropes of all types, including ropes for bells, barriers and banisters, as well as dog leads and braids.

From the car park turn left. Just before the Creamery turn right between houses. Follow the left side of the field to a stile at the top. Keep straight on past a barn and across a lane. After passing a ruined barn, bear right to the B6255. Turn left, then right through a gate signed 'Thorney Mire House'. Follow the path, which bears left between parallel walls, for 0.5 miles (800m) to meet a lane. Turn right and follow this to the A684 at Appersett.

Turn left over the bridge. Continue over another bridge to a junction, turn right and go straight over a stile, signed 'Bluebell Hill'. Bear slightly right to a gate and over a bridge, then bear left uphill to reach a gate. Continue past waymarkers to a signpost.

Turn right and walk to a stile (Bob's Stile) then bear slightly right to a prominent ladder stile. Walk straight ahead and Hardraw soon appears. Continue down over a stile, then over a ladder stile into a lane.

Turn right, then left at the main road. Hardraw Force entrance is through the Green Dragon pub. Immediately after the pub, turn left, then right through a signed gap in the wall and through a courtyard. Follow a flagged path and steps uphill to a house. Turn right behind it, pass right of the stables, then bear slightly left to pass below the grounds of Simonstone Hall Hotel, joining its drive.

Walk down to a road and turn left. Almost immediately turn right through a stile signed 'Sedbusk'. Follow the track past farm buildings to a ladder stile, then continue straight ahead. Skirt below a house and continue over more stiles, along a flagged path and between houses into Sedbusk.

Turn right along the road, bend left near the postbox and descend. Go right, over a stile signed 'Haylands Bridge'. Cross the field, bear right below a wall-corner to a stile, then descend to a stile by the right end of a line of trees. Cross the lane to another stile and follow an obvious path across a stream. Descend to a humpback bridge and continue to a road.

Turn left and cross Haylands Bridge. About 200yds (183m) beyond, go right through a kissing gate signed 'Hawes'. Follow the path to a track, turn left a few paces, then right onto the main road. At the junction, cross the first road, then turn right past the post office. Follow the main road through Hawes. Immediately before the public toilets, turn left up steps to the car park.