Foxton Locks: flights of fancy

Although it might be tempting to regard Britain's canal system as an antiquated relic, a visit to the Grand Union Canal at Foxton Locks proves that it is not only still working but also remains very popular. The highlight at Foxton is a staircase of ten locks which raises the canal by 75ft (23m). It takes a boat an average of 45 minutes to negotiate all ten locks, as well as the small matter of displacing 25,000 gallons (113,650 litres) of water for the entire passage.

The locks were opened in 1814, but because they were so narrow created something of a bottleneck, and 60 years later a mechanical lift known as an 'inclined plane' was built to enable boats to be transported much more quickly. From the black-and-white photographs on show in the museum these two counterbalancing docks or tanks (which ran on rails up and down the hillside) must have been quite a spectacle, and cut the journey through Foxton down to as little as eight minutes. Unfortunately canal traffic was already waning, thanks to the competition from railway and road traffic, so the inclined plane operated for just ten years. By 1928 the equipment was sold for scrap, leaving only the grassed-over rails.

A new lease of life

Today there are more boats on Britain's canals than in the commercial days, and places such as Foxton Locks are a popular visitor attraction. The fascinating Foxton Canal Museum is open daily from April to October (weekends only in winter) and is housed in the former boiler house of the inclined plane, while the pubs cater for canal traffic and tourists alike.

At the basin below the locks, a 6-mile (9.7km) arm leads to Market Harborough, although most craft head up and down the main Grand Union route. Boats can be hired, or else you can just enjoy a short afternoon cruise up and down the waterway on board The Vagabond.

Whatever your level of interest, there is something undeniably fascinating about watching a handsome and colourful narrowboat negotiate the ten locks at Foxton. Perhaps it has something to do with the sheer ingenuity of displacing water to raise or lower a large craft, and the quiet and unhurried nature of it all. Or possibly it's simply nice to watch someone else hard at work. Either way, what can beat idling by a picturesque lock deep in the middle of the Leicestershire countryside.

Turn left out of the car park and along the signposted path parallel with the road to reach the canal. Go right, under the road bridge, then over the footbridge, in order to turn right on the far bank and along the tow path to Foxton Locks. Descend the lock staircase to reach the basin at the bottom.

Go ahead past the Bridge 61 pub and switch banks via the higharched brick footbridge (Rainbow Bridge). Walk out along the wide tow path beyond. Continue along this easy and peaceful route for 1.75 miles (2.8km), following the Grand Union Canal as it swings left beyond Debdale Wharf. Notice the large numbers of boats moored in the marina, some in preparation for repairs and renovation, while others are kept here permanently. There are lovely views over the open countryside towards Kibworth Beauchamp to the north.

At Bridge No 68 go over the stile on the right to cross the metal footbridge via a gate and a stile. On the far side make your way up the left-hand edge of a wide, sloping field to pass Debdale Grange. Continue alongside the top field to reach the lane that lies on the far side.

Turn right, along the road for 0.25 miles (400m), then, approaching a road junction, go over the stile on the left for a signposted public footpath across the field. Take the right fork, aiming for the far edge of Gumley Wood – the left-hand path is signposted 'Foxton' and takes you straight back to the canal. Follow the path closely around the side of the plantation through a series of fields.

If you want to visit the pub in the village of Gumley go right for the waymarked path uphill, otherwise veer half left through more fields, following the obvious yellow-topped posts. Go over the farm drive and two further fields to return to the canal on the very far side. Cross the high, thin footbridge and turn right to return to the basin and locks. Walk back up beside the staircase, crossing over half-way up to visit the museum.

From the museum follow the popular path up along its side (don't cross the main canal again), go right at a path junction, then left along the canal arm to reach the boat lift viewing platform at the end. Now walk back along the tow path to return to the road bridge. Go under this and turn left to return to the car park.