From Balham and on to Tooting Bec

People who say they live in Balham are often amazed at how many knowingly answer with that old chestnut: 'Ah, you mean the Gateway to the South'. The catchphrase, made famous by Peter Sellers, seems set to stay around for a few more decades. Fortunately, Balham has much more to offer than mere access to south London – some might even say it has had the last laugh.

Huguenots and Hitler

Balham is mentioned in the Domesday Book. In the late 18th century it mainly consisted of fields peppered with large houses. In the 1860s, by the time the railway network had increased, it was already popular with the working and middle classes and residential developments began to appear. In the 1930s the architect G Kay Green designed the largest privately owned block under one roof in Europe. Du Cane Court, named after a family of Huguenots on whose land the site was built, contains 676 flats and is home to more than 1,000 residents. When World War I began many people left for the relative safety of the countryside (and children were evacuated too) but the Foreign Office came to the rescue: many of its staff rented flats in the block, no doubt impressed by the short train journey to Victoria. In the 1940s a small flat cost around £6 a month to rent, which was not considered cheap but it included a remarkable view. Today, from the seventh floor rooftop, the panoramic view over London must surely match those from Parliament Hill, Alexandra Palace, Canary Wharf and anywhere else north of the river, for that matter. Despite being a major landmark in the area, because of its size, it was never bombed by the Germans during the war (although 64 lives were lost when Balham Station was hit). Some even say that Hitler had placed spies here and that it was used as a landmark by his aircrews. If this were true, the spies would have been in good hands for, food rations permitting, the restaurant on the top floor served some very fine dishes.

Comic Balhamites

Margaret Rutherford, the comedy actress who became a household name after starring as Miss Marple, was born here in 1892. Also born here, but in 1946, was John Sullivan, who wrote Citizen Smith and the timeless Only Fools and Horses for television. If you want to see the interior of Du Cane Court, you'll have to watch one of the Agatha Christie adaptations in which the lobby and flats have been featured; the sweeping art deco staircase is a rare and wonderful sight.

Turn right at Balham Station, along Balham Station Road. Cross at the lights, past the Bedford pub, into Fernlea Road. Turn right along Cavendish Road and go under a railway bridge. Turn left and follow the railway embankment wall, passing a playground and playing fields on the right.

At another bridge take the first right-hand tarmac path running parallel to a row of houses. As the path bends left, it runs alongside another railway track lined with trees before meeting a road, Bedford Hill. Go right and cross the bridge, then the road to join a path leading to Tooting Bec Common.

Turn sharp left and continue along a path that hugs the railway track and passes Tooting Bec Lido. Pass the Lido car park and follow the path that circles it clockwise. After crossing the car park approach road, take the right-hand path leading into the common and, at a clump of trees, turn left along a narrow path around a lake.

Beyond the children's playground take the next left and go left again in front of the cafe; follow the path to go right along Hillbury Road. Continue ahead into Manville Road. At the next crossroads turn left into Ritherdon Road and continue to the end.

Turn right at the traffic lights into Balham High Road, passing Du Cane Court and St Mary and St John the Divine church before reaching the station from where the walk began.