From St Mary's to St Mary's and back

This is the story of two Saint Marys. Kettlebaston’s St Mary has to make do with having her own church but nothing more. In Preston, however, things are different. Mary there gets not only a church but also has her monicker incorporated into the name of the village. However, this is unlikely to have been on account of any extreme devotion on the part of the good people of Preston but the fact that their village’s name is so common (there are 24 places called simply ‘Preston’ in England alone) that adding ‘St Mary’ after it helps to avoid confusion.

St Mary’s, Kettlebaston

Visitors pass through an impressive archway of yews to enter St Mary’s churchyard. The church itself somehow seems to have had the Reformation bypass it completely, as evidenced by the niche from which the patron blithely greets all comers. At the back of the church are some casts of the 14th-century Kettlebaston Alabasters, depicting the Coronation of Mary, the Annunciation, Ascension and Holy Trinity. The originals were discovered in the chancel wall in 1864 and are now in the British Museum in London. Among the other treasures is the 20th-century rood screen with portraits of English saints.

Preston St Mary’s

Perched on the western slope of the valley of the River Brett, there has been a community living at Preston St Mary since at least AD43, with various coins and artefacts from the Roman occupation having been found here. The yew tree in the churchyard is a mere 800 or so years old though that still means it pre-dates the church, which was erected in the 14th and 15th centuries. The porch, of flint flushwork, is one of the finest in the county but it’s what’s inside the church that really springs a surprise. Up on the north wall by the door are two oak triptychs painted (or possibly merely commissioned) by Robert Ryece III of Preston Hall (1555-1638). One depicts the coat of arms of Queen Elizabeth I which appear to have been painted over the arms of Edward VI, the child king who died in 1553. It is one of only three such triptychs in the country. The other triptych is a lavish rendering of the Ten Commandants in gold on a deep dark blue.

Kettlebaston’s village sign

Opposite the church, the village sign features two crossed sceptres – one gold, the other ivory – topped by a pair of doves. This is a reference to William de la Pole, Marquis of Suffolk, who was granted the manor of Kettlebaston by Henry VI on condition that he bear a sceptre (gold for a king, ivory for a queen) at all royal coronations. As conditions go, it can’t have been all that onerous a one to abide by.

Walk into St Mary's churchyard and through it to turn right behind the church, cross a meadow and pass around a stile to reach a lane. Turn left and walk along this lane for 0.5 miles (800m) between stud and cattle farms. 

Just before the entrance to High House Farm, turn left on to a field-edge path running beside a ditch. At the foot of the field, cross a wooden bridge to join a path on the other side of the stream. Follow this path round to the right between paddocks then go through a gate and walk uphill on a concrete lane to College Farm. After passing the farm, the lane becomes a road leading into Preston St Mary. Look for a gate in the hedge on your left to enter St Mary’s churchyard. After looking at the church, return to the road. Turn left and at the T junction either turn left to refresh yourself at the Six Bells or turn right towards Whelp Street.

When you come to a T-junction with Whelp Street go straight on over a stile through a gap in the hedge and a 'Beware Pig' sign. Step over a pig guard to cross a footbridge and climb steps to a field. Keep straight ahead to cross the field, joining a hedge on the other side which you follow without changing direction with the hedge on your left-hand side. Continue along this hedge to the right and then turn left to a T-junction with a wide grassy path. Turn left along it. Eventually the track becomes a tarmac lane leading to a road junction. Keep straight ahead, cross a bridge and climb the hill into Kettlebaston to arrive at St Mary's Church and the start of the walk.