From Thatcham across Greenham Common

Greenham Common’s former airbase is synonymous with CND rallies, women’s protest groups and cruise missiles – a powerful evocation of the Cold War period and the threat of nuclear attack; back in 1982 Raymond Briggs’ When the Wind Blows confronted the everyday Bloggs couple with the horror of nuclear war, and just two years later Frankie Goes to Hollywood reached the top of the charts with Two Tribes.

Today the derelict buildings have been demolished and the 9-mile (14.5km) perimeter fence – once famously encircled by 30,000 women protestors holding hands – has been removed. Only the air traffic control tower remains. As a sign of modern times, in 2013 the tower was for sale on the open market, advertised as an 'iconic Grade II-listed Cold War building with fantastic views'. The vendors, West Berkshire Council, also indicated they would consider applications for a change of use of the building 'for housing, offices, a cafe, a cinema or even a place of worship'.

A military air base

An area of open common land, Greenham was acquired by the Air Ministry in 1941 for use as a military base, home to British squadrons and then the US Air Force. In 1951 the Americans set about building the longest military runway in Europe here, and in 1983 the first (of 96) nuclear-armed cruise missiles arrived, making Greenham Common a focus of world attention for the rest of that decade. Thankfully, for all concerned, their presence was relatively short-lived. The Intermediate-Range Nuclear Forces Treaty, signed between the US (by President Reagan) and USSR (by Premier Gorbachev) in 1987, agreed the removal of missiles from Greenham, with the final warheads being removed in 1991.

In its heyday, the airbase was virtually a self-contained American city, with everything from baseball pitches to its own school. The 1,000-acre (405ha) site even hosted international air shows, and some local people feared that it might become the new London airport. There is a fascinating map on the gate by the control tower showing the points of interest on the airbase in the 1980s, including the location of the cruise missiles. Today, thanks to a multi-million pound redevelopment, Greenham Common is being restored to its pre-World War II  state.

The open windswept landscape of both Greenham and Crookham commons is dramatically different to the sheltered walk beside the Kennet and Avon Canal and the River Lambourn, that both precedes and follows it on this walk. The canalside approach to Newbury is particularly – and very pleasantly – surprising, becoming almost more bucolic as the town approaches.

From the station, cross the road and join the canal towards Ham Bridge. Pass Monkey Marsh Lock – unusual in that it is turf-sided – and at the swing bridge turn left towards Chamberhouse Farm. Pass between the outbuildings and follow the drive past the farmhouse and cottages.

Cross the river, and just beyond it the drive curves left. Keep right here and follow the track as it runs steeply up through woodland to the road. Cross over to a gate leading on to Crookham Common and turn right. Follow the path parallel to the road. Walk on a little further and follow the stoney path which winds to join the long, straight former military taxi-way.

The old aircraft control tower comes into view and you pass a hewn log carved to provide seats. Continue a few yards past a copse, and when the tower reappears, branch off right and go through a gate past the tower, leaving the Common.

Do not enter the car park, but instead turn right in front of it. After around 20 paces turn sharp left along a hedge (with the car park, left), past a rusted boiler, to a field gate and walker’s gate which takes you (briefly) back onto the Common. Continue and soon pass through another large gate. Keep to the left of the field, and beyond the fence corner, at a small waymark post pointing straight ahead, bear left. Go through the gap in the hedge, then left to a wire fence, then right, and after 40 paces go left through a gate. Descend to the road bend, cross it (carefully) and head down through trees into Bowdown Woods.

Pass Bowdown Farm and on your left is a golf course. To left and right are disused quarry workings. Continue on the lane to a stile and gate; go over and keep ahead, passing alongside Lower Farm. Newbury Racecourse adjoins the route. Veer left to pass under the railway, and soon a swing bridge, right, crosses the canal.

Cross the canal, turn left and follow the tow path to Ham Bridge. Go up and across the bridge, then turn right to follow the path along the south bank. Continue on a leafy stretch of tow path past Newbury Boat Company moorings, then cross over the canal again at the next footbridge, with Tesco’s and The Narrow Boat pub on the north bank. Keep to the path and cross the next bridge at the entrance to a marina. Pass picturesque Greenham Lock.

Go under the road through a gate and alongside Victoria Park before reaching the next bridge. Leave the tow path and cross the canal into what was Newbury Wharf (an information board relates its history), then keep right past the West Berkshire Museum, and continue ahead. Turn left in the Market Place and follow Cheap Street. At its right-hand bend, continue ahead, passing the Baptist Church, then go round to the right for Newbury Station and the train back to Thatcham.