Gussage St Michael and the Dorset Cursus

Like many parts of Dorset, the eastern vales offer some lovely views and are littered with ancient remains that add a touch of historical interest to any walk; the area around Gussage St Michael is no exception. The small, sprawling village is squeezed between Ackling Dyke, an important Roman road, and a more ancient, processional way known as the Dorset Cursus. There are two more Gussage villages to discover: the larger All Saints to the southeast and the tiny Gussage St Andrew to the northwest. The curious name shared by the three villages is derived from the Saxon words for a spring (‘gyse’ for ‘water breaking forth’) and ‘sic’ meaning a watercourse; the second part of each name is derived from the dedication of the local church.

The Cursus is a broad track, between parallel banks and ditches, some 6 miles (10km) long, running across this northeast corner of Dorset from Bokerley Dyke to a cluster of long barrows and tumuli. It appears to be aligned with the rising and setting sun at midsummer and midwinter. Its edges have been blurred by time and the plough, but one of the clearest sections can be seen on this walk. It’s believed to date to Neolithic times, around 2000 bc, but its purpose isn’t clear. There are some great views northwards from Gussage Hill over Gussage Down. You can see the shadow of the parallel ditches of the Cursus heading away towards Pentridge and Penbury Knoll, marked by a clump of dark firs. Hollows and hummocks on the flank of Gussage Hill suggest the remains of a large Neolithic settlement, and the top is liberally scattered with tumuli and long barrows. Towards the end of the day the low light of the setting sun makes the ground shimmer silver with cobwebs.

Slightly more recent is the former Roman road of Ackling Dyke. This major route can still be traced for 22 miles (35km) between Old Sarum (near Salisbury), which had links to London, along the Portway and the hill-fort at Badbury Rings from where a Roman road continued to Dorchester. The return part of the walk follows a section of this former Roman road.

Turn left down the street in Gussage St Michael, as if you were going to the church, but turn right by Corner Cottage, onto the road signposted to Long Crichel. Where the road swings up to the left, go straight on, into Manor Road, following the footpath sign for Cashmoor. Continue along the broad green valley, passing houses on the left. Go past the large gates (path opening on the left side) and continue along the driveway.

At Manor Farm turn right down the drive for 109yds (100m) and then left across a stile beside a gate. Follow the track for 0.25 miles (400m), until you are level with a clump of trees to the left. Cross a stile to your right, then a footbridge and another stile. Bear left across the field corner to a footbridge into a garden. Turn sharp right through the garden to cross a stone footbridge and pass between the houses and garages at Ryall’s Lodge. Go up a drive to a road.

Turn left along the lane for 320yds (300m) and, after passing a house (Meadowside) on your left, turn right on a surfaced track (bridleway), running parallel with the Dorset Cursus to your left. Continue past some farm buildings and stay on the track as it kinks left across the Cursus then bends right up the hill to a gate at the top.

Turn right along the grassy fence-lined bridleway. Follow this for slightly under a mile (1.6km) along the ridge of Gussage Hill, with views northwards over Gussage Down and ancient long barrows and tumuli to the right. Keep straight ahead at the intersection of tracks near the top of Gussage Hill, passing the trig point over to your right and a ragged line of hawthorn bushes.

Follow the bridleway into the trees to a junction, passing an unexpectedly modern memorial stone to one John Ironmonger, who died in 1986, and turn right along the track. The walk now follows the former Roman road (Ackling Dyke) for slightly over a mile (1.6km), first with woods to the left and then between hedges; the dyke is raised at this point, with a ditch and bank to the right.

At a barn on the left turn right on a droving track between high hedges. Keep straight on along the wide gravel track to a T-junction and turn down to the left. Later pass the buildings of Lower Farm. Bear right along the lane beside an old flint wall with tile cap on the right, crossing a stream to return to the lay-by where you started.