Hatherleigh to Iddlesleigh

The name of the Tarka Trail (a long-distance walking and cycling route, much of it off-road) is taken from North Devon author Henry Williamson’s classic novel Tarka the Otter, published in 1927. It runs for 180 miles (297km) through the peaceful countryside of north and mid-Devon, signed, most appropriately, with an otter paw symbol. The trail covers a huge area, from Okehampton on the northern edge of Dartmoor, across the course of the Taw and Torridge rivers, to Ilfracombe on the north Devon coast, and east to Lynton and Exmoor. It forms a large figure-of-eight, following disused railway lines, various rights of way and permissive paths, and provides excellent opportunities for quiet exploration of the least-visited part of the county.

This route follows a part of the trail that is only open to walkers, and starts in the historic market town of Hatherleigh.

Originally a Saxon settlement, Hatherleigh developed as a staging post on the main route from Bideford to Exeter, and to Plymouth, and has long been an important market town for north and west Devon, although the weekly livestock market has now ceased trading. The town’s agricultural heritage is endorsed by the ‘Sheep’ sculpture by the car park, and the beautiful cow and sheep head figures, in the square, in front of the church, mark the devastating foot and mouth outbreak in 2001.

The town has had its share of disasters over the years: a great fire in 1840 destroyed many of the old buildings, and The George on Market Square (a 15th-century building) was burned to the ground early this century and rebuilt to the original specification, reopening in 2010. The parish church of St John the Baptist had to be extensively restored after the mid-15th century 54ft (16.5m) spire plunged through the roof of the nave in the storms of January 1990.

Hatherleigh is located in a part of Devon that has become known as ‘Ruby Country’ on account of the dark red-brown Ruby Red beef cattle raised on many local farms. A recent initiative to promote this area for visitors has received a welcome boost via the success of Michael Morpurgo’s War Horse spin-offs (see While You’re There): Parsonage Farm, passed on Point 6, is now home to the War Horse Valley Country Park.

Leave the car park past the wonderful ‘Sheep’ sculpture and turn left up Bridge Street and then Market Street. Pass in front of the parish church, and the Tally Ho! Inn. At the top of the hill follow the road left into Oakfield Road.

Turn right up Sanctuary Lane, signed ‘to public footpath’. The lane climbs steeply; ignore all footpath signs until you pass Wingates at the hilltop; the lane soon bends sharp left.

Go through a gate into a field, signed ‘Tarka Trail’. Walk straight across the field, through two gates by an oak tree, then across the next, picking up the fence to the left of four big oaks. Pass through a gate and keep ahead through a conifer plantation, over a footbridge and into a field. Keep ahead over a stile, cross the next field and stile to pass through Groves Fishleigh. Go down the drive and to a T-junction.

Turn right towards Arnolds Fishleigh; follow the track left. At farm buildings turn sharp right (footpath) through a gate/stile into an orchard. Keep ahead through a big gate. Bear left; at the field end cross the stile, then right along the edge of the field. Turn right through a gate, left through the next gateway, and follow the field edge downhill to the River Okement.

Cross the wooden bridge. Turn left along the river bank, then right at the hedge, keeping the hedge left. Bear left through the next gate, then bear right to a gate on to a green lane, uphill. Follow signs right, through a gate, and along the right field edge to Nethercott Barton. Go through the gate in the corner, turn left uphill.

Turn left at the lane, passing the entrance to Nethercott House. Soon bear right down the drive to Parsonage Farm, bearing right at gates to the farmhouse. Pass through a gate and cross the farmyard, then through a gate and along the left field edge. Take the right-hand gate at the end (views to Iddesleigh), and follow the left field edge downhill. A gate leads to a track, which in turn reaches a lane.

Turn left uphill at the lane. Go right opposite St James’ Church (15th century), then left to the Duke of York Inn. On the return route to Hatherleigh (retracing your outward route) you’ll enjoy wonderful, and different, views towards the northern slopes of Dartmoor.