Hod Hill and Hambledon hill

An irregular triangle of high ground overlooks the confluence of the River Iwerne with the Stour, their valleys splendidly isolating it from the downs on either side. There are actually two separate tops divided by a deep saddle, imposing a double ascent on any walk linking the two. But the climb is amply repaid in the rewards of spectacular views and the chance to explore two of Dorset’s most impressive hill-forts.

Such sites exist across the country and were traditionally regarded as purpose-built ‘forts’, used as refuges during unrest. However, the eventual realisation that most contained significant numbers of dwellings suggests transhumance or even permanent settlement, despite the lack of water on the hilltops.

By the 1st century bc, the area was held by the Durotriges, Celtic farmers well versed in the manufacture of pottery and ironwork and who traded with the Continent through a port at Hengistbury Head. The Roman invasion in ad 43 brought a sudden end to their way of life for, despite a strong resistance, they were eventually conquered and lost their identity.

Hod Hill

The settlement on Hod Hill is perhaps the easier to interpret; a large, roughly rectangular earthwork containing some 54 acres (22 hectares), the largest such enclosure in Dorset. It is defended on three sides by a double bank and ditch, while the steeper slope overlooking the Stour has only a single bank.

In the southeast corner are traces of round houses and enclosures, and it is estimated that there were around 250 families led by a chieftain. When the Romans arrived, this chieftain appears to have been the focus of attack, as a concentration of ballista bolts was found during excavation around the largest hut. But the absence of buried war dead suggests the settlement might have surrendered in the face of such force. The Romans established their own fort in the northeast corner, its outlines still clearly visible. The remains of the commander’s house, storehouses, latrines and a water tank have been identified.

Hambledon Hill

The earthworks on Hambledon Hill originated during the Neolithic period and were successively extended into the Iron Age, culminating in an extensive triple bank. A long barrow and the foundation platforms of around 200 huts have been identified, but it is thought the site was largely abandoned by around 300 bc, in favour of Hod Hill. The hillsides are lightly managed by grazing and occasional scrub clearance to encourage a wide range of wild flowers. These in turn attract butterflies, including several blues and the grizzled and dingy skippers.

Of the several paths radiating behind the car park, take the one climbing left to a gate into the bottom corner of a field. Do not follow a sign to Hod Hill, but bear half right to climb beside the edge of a wood. Beyond a gate at the top, the path breaks through the ramparts and continues diagonally across a vast enclosure. Partway, it cuts through a lower earthwork, the boundary of the Roman fort sited in its northwest corner.

Reaching the far corner, drop through the defences towards a gate and stile. Turn left immediately before it on a path below the ramparts. A short way along turn through a gate to a chalk track below. To the left, it gently descends across the slope of the hill to end through a gate onto the main road. However, instead of passing through, bear left on a bridleway above the road. Pass through a gate into a field and head down to a gate near the bottom corner.

Cross a lane to another gate almost opposite and climb away at the right field edge over the shoulder of the hill. Where the hedge swings left, go through a waymarked gap on your right. Follow a path through scrub wood, passing through a second gate to descend above a bank of coppiced hazel. Meeting a gravel track at the bottom, go left and then right across the foot of Coombe Bottom. Behind the railings on the right is Ranston Park. Climb to a junction on the shoulder of the hill.

The track ahead leads down to Iwerne Courtney, where you will find a pub in the village. The onward route, however, is to the left, climbing steadily along the ridge to a trig point marking the highest point of Hambledon Hill.

The survey column stands at the centre of a Neolithic camp, but the much larger Iron Age fort lies to the right beyond a shallow saddle, straddling the more extensive northern arm of the hill. The multiple embankments and ditches of the fortification snake around the upper slopes and you can easily spend an hour or more wandering around the site. The views are particularly impressive when the sun is low.

Return to the trig column and walk ahead along the ridge, gradually descending to a gate. Curve left above the top of Coombe Wood and continue with the broad, descending ridge towards a barn, going through a gate along the way.

Pass through a gate and swing right with the track, the gradient steepening as it falls into the valley. At the bottom, emerge onto a lane beside Keeper’s Cottage. Turn right back to the car park.