John Peel's Fells at Bassenthwaite

This part of the Lakes, at the ‘Back o’Skiddaw’ and across the fells of Uldale and neighbouring Caldbeck, is where John Peel and his pack of hounds galloped in pursuit of foxes. Although possibly the world’s most famous huntsman, he was far removed from the stereotypical red-coated country gentleman. Peel was a tall, rough-spoken Cumbrian farmer with a loud voice. His coat of grey was made from everyday cloth. He wore knee britches, long stockings and shoes and a battered, well-worn beaver hat. To complete his outfit he carried a riding crop and a hunting horn. He liked nothing better than to spend a long day riding to hounds with his companions, returning home at dusk for a simple meal. Then they’d sit round the fire and indulge in an evening of heavy drinking before falling asleep in their chairs only to rise at dawn for another day on the fells.

John Peel was born at Caldbeck in 1776. At the age of 20 he fell in love with an Uldale girl called Mary White. They arranged to be married, but Mary’s mother forbade the banns because ‘They’re far ower young’. Undeterred, Peel rode to Mary’s house at midnight. She escaped from her bedroom window and they made for Gretna Green in Scotland, where they were married ‘over the anvil’ by the village blacksmith. Mary’s mother accepted the situation and the marriage was ratified in the church at Caldbeck in December 1797. Mary inherited a property in Ruthwaite, where the family lived and farmed.

Peel died in 1854 and was buried in Caldbeck churchyard. That would have been the end of the story had not his friend John Woodcock Graves written a song about Peel. To the tune of ‘Bonnie Annie’, he dashed off ‘D’ye Ken John Peel’. He joked, ‘By jove Peel, you’ll be sung when we’re both run to earth’. Peel might still have been consigned to oblivion had not William Metcalfe, choir master at Carlisle Cathedral, composed and published a new tune for the song in 1868, which he was invited to sing at the annual dinner of the Cumberland Benevolent Institution in London.

From the centre of Bassenthwaite village, pass the Sun Inn and turn right into Park Wood. Follow this for 1.25 miles (2km) to a T-junction, with a signpost pointing to Orthwaite, and turn left. Continue for about 650yds (594m) to a junction with a farm track coming in from the right, and a public bridleway sign.

Turn right along this track and through a gate signed ‘Uldale Commons’. Follow the farm road to a public bridleway sign on the left. Take the bridleway and head uphill. It’s a fairly steep climb to Brockle Crag before it levels out.

The bridleway heads downhill. Ignore another path to the right. Just before you reach a beck, strike off left (northeast) across pathless ground towards some tumbledown walls. From here, continue into the tight valley of Burntod Gill, joining a faint path along the way. This is loose and stony in places, crossing and recrossing the beck.

At the first notch in the hillside on the left, head up to the left away from the water through Trusmadoor, the pass between Great Cockup and Meal Fell. Keep straight ahead through the pass.

Bear left at an area of rushes just beyond a patch of slate. The path becomes less clear as it heads across two hillocks. When it fades to almost nothing over some boggy ground, keep heading northwest. You will then pick up a clearer path that swings left to round the shoulder of the fell.

Ahead of you on the horizon is Castle How with its halo of Scots pine. Where the clear path becomes less distinct, swing southwest to avoid losing too much height. You’ll quickly pick it up again. Keep right immediately after a small ford, but keep left at subsequent forks.

Eventually you will see Bassenthwaite Lake ahead. When the path fades, follow the line of the wall on the right, returning to the farm track you followed earlier in the walk. Turn right here. Turn left at the road, then right at the junction, retracing your steps into Bassenthwaite village.