On Win Green Hill

Ashcombe House, to the north of Tollard Royal and set amid the remote, rolling downland of Cranborne Chase, is one of the finest residences in the area. A Georgian manor house, included on the list of Buildings of Special Architectural or Historic Interest, Ashcombe dates back to the mid-18th century, replacing an earlier house demolished by the Barber family who lived here. Ashcombe was later extensively remodelled and in 1930 the distinguished photographer and designer Cecil Beaton signed the lease, renting the house for a modest £50 a year. There was one stipulation, however. In return for the low rent, Beaton would make various improvements to the house, which was then in a poor state of repair. Its new occupant duly went ahead and carried out the work. It was no hardship. Beaton fell in love with Ashcombe the moment he first set eyes on it. He wrote of his first glimpse of the house, as he approached it through the arch of the gatehouse.

Hollywood at Ashcombe

‘None of us uttered a word as we came under the vaulted ceiling and stood before a small, compact house of lilac-coloured brick. We inhaled sensuously the strange, haunting – and rather haunted – atmosphere of the place…I was almost numbed by my first encounter with the house. It was as if I had been touched on the head by some magic wand.’

Beaton converted the orangery into his studio and entertained on a lavish scale at Ashcombe. Among his guests were artists, socialites and Hollywood film stars. Salvador Dali, Tallulah Bankhead and Augustus John stayed at the house. Dali even used it as the backdrop for one of his paintings. Cecil Beaton left Ashcombe in 1945 when the lease expired. He was heartbroken and Hugo Vickers, his biographer, claims Beaton never really got over having to leave his dearly loved home. He moved to Broad Chalke, a few miles away. Until his death in 1980, Beaton owned a late 18th-century painting of Ashcombe, believed to have been completed about 1770.

For sale

It was Vickers who, years after Beaton’s death, happened to mention to Madonna and her then husband Guy Ritchie that Ashcombe was up for sale, the first time it had been on the market since just after the First World War. The couple bought the house in 2001. ‘We just fell in love with it,’ the singer said. ‘In the summertime it’s the most beautiful place in the world.’ Seven years later Madonna and Ritchie divorced and he received the estate as part of the settlement. Walking so close to the house today, as this spectacular walk does, is a reminder of glamorous years past, when Ashcombe was home to two high profile and distinctly individual celebrities.

Facing the pond, turn left along the metalled track, disregard the path taken on Walk 33, then bear right at a fork along the signposted ‘byway to Win Green.’ Begin ascending steeply on a stony track and remain on it as it steadily climbs to the top of Berwick Down, passing Tollard Royal reservoir on the right. Continue to climb, the track curving left to reach a junction of ways at the summit of Monk’s Down.

Ignore the metalled track on your right and proceed ahead, keeping right at the fork to follow the ancient Ox Drove track along the top of the chalk downland. Stay on this lofty track around the top of the Ashcombe Valley, and soon reach the cattle grid and National Trust sign at Win Green Hill. Fork left here, passing through a gate to ascend the grassy path to the clump of beech trees at the summit.

Look for a trig point and topographical table and head south on the grassy path to reach a stile in the fence ahead. Win Green car park is over to the right. Cross the stile and turn immediately left, following waymarks. Head down the hillside, keeping to the grassy path as it veers over to the right to run parallel with fencing. Follow the path steeply downhill to reach a gate within woodland. Continue straight on and soon turn right along a track.

Descend steeply and soon bear left to follow the track through Ashcombe Bottom. Keep right as indicated and where the track bears right uphill, keep straight on. Follow the path in front of a cottage, continuing along the valley bottom.

As the track curves right to a gate, bear off left through two gates (signposted Tollard Royal). Join a grassy path and follow it round to the right, heading for the village. Continue to a gate and then keep ahead down the track to reach the pond at Tollard Royal where the walk started.