Over the Downs to Turnworth

Though Thomas Hardy (1840–1928) is well known as a novelist and a poet, his first chosen career as an architect is barely acknowledged. Hardy was born at Higher Bockhampton into a family of builders and stonemasons, so it was natural enough that at 16 he should start architectural studies as a trainee draughtsman with John Hicks in Dorchester. In 1862 he moved to London, where he specialised in church restoration work. Returning to Dorset five years later, Hardy continued with intermittent architectural work, initially working again on church restoration projects for G R Crickmay in Weymouth.

The church of St Mary in Turnworth, which you’ll pass, is an example of this type of work. Hardy was responsible for the design of the carved stone foliage for the church’s pillars, although the work was actually carried out later. His most visible and best-known architectural achievement is his own house at Max Gate, Dorchester, a large Victorian villa, started in 1885, which is a tenanted National Trust property, open to the public via pre-booked tours only.

Thomas Hardy used his native county as the background for his books, setting his stories in varied and vividly described settings all over Dorset. Many of his books feature downlands, of which Turnworth is one, and many of these upland pastures are probably among the least altered by modern agriculture. Dorset downs are still used for grazing, and it’s the constant cropping of the grass by sheep that keeps rampant growth under control and makes the downs home to a wonderful range of beautiful, chalk-loving wild flower species. Depending on the time of year you choose to walk, look out for springtime cowslips in huge numbers, with bluebells in the woods that often border the downs. Summer sees a succession of wild native orchids, tiny intricate flowers whose names describe them – greater butterfly, common spotted, pyramidal, bee and fragrant. In midsummer wild thyme scents whole hillsides, and it’s followed by yellow and gold bird’s foot trefoil, heady wild mignonette – nothing to look at but highly scented – and the tiny, jewel-like autumn gentian. These all attract butterflies, moths and insects galore, while the short-cropped turf makes a perfect nesting site for skylarks, which you’ll hear high overhead long before you see them.

Turn right out of the picnic area and down the hill, almost immediately turning left down a wide track. About 250yds (230m) on – just after a green barrier in front of a wood and just before a Forestry Commission sign for Okeford Hill – fork right. Follow this woodland path for about 0.25 miles (400m), then bear right through a gap by a yellow footpath marker and immediately turn left along a broad green ride, with a windswept hedge on your left. Go straight on, following the track as it runs through woodland, descending gently and narrowing all the time to the end of the wood. Stay on what has become a narrow path between hedges with open farmland beyond for 0.25 miles (400m).

At a crossroads of tracks, marked by a fingerpost, turn right. The path leads downhill, passing a barn on the right. At the bottom turn right and walk along the road to Turnworth village, passing the Church of St Mary on the left.

After house No. 10, avoid a bridleway on the left, but take the next bridleway on the left 50yds (45m) later. Soon enter a field and go diagonally right, passing left of the nearest clump of trees. At the top corner go through a gateway and keep on straight, bearing diagonally left across the field through a gap in the left-hand hedgerow. Continue on this line, bearing right across the corner of the field under a great oak tree, to reach a stile in the fence. Cross this and bear diagonally left down the steep hill. Below, on the right, you will see Turnworth House and its park and walled garden. Cross a track and keep going down, to reach a gate above a barn. Go through it and walk round to a road. Turn left and immediately right opposite Okeden House.

Go through a gate on the right and head up the steep road. Tarmac soon gives way to track. The track soon curls left round the top of the woods. Bear diagonally right, up the flinty field, aiming for a gap in the hedge to the right of a low metal trough. Bear left along a grassy track between two hedgerows. The track narrows to a path and leads to a kissing gate. Go through this and turn left up the edge of the field. The ridges and ditches to your right are signs of an Iron Age farming settlement – this is Ringmoor (owned by the National Trust). Pass the extremely overgrown ruins of a farm on your left and reach a gate. Go through this, pass a pond and go through another gate.

Turn right onto the Wessex Ridgeway path – signed ‘Okeford Hill’ – and follow this for 0.75 miles (1.2km), gently downhill with outstanding views to the northwest. Just before the road turn left through a gap in the hedge to re-enter the picnic area.