Peddars Way: North Pickenham to Rhubarb Cottage

The Peddars Way begins at Knettishall Heath, passes through the fascinating Brecks of Norfolk, and continues through the remote and lonely northwest of the county. The next section of the Peddars Way heads for one of arguably the most interesting settlement on the entire route: Castle Acre. The brief meeting of the Peddars Way with the A47 is a good example of how, along this long distance footpath, you can lose yourself in a sort of timewarp, for much of the route has doubtless been walked by man since time immemorial, and the occasional reminders of the hustle and bustle of the late 20th century only serve to reinforce your enjoyment.

From North Pickenham the Peddars Way runs along the road, going in a northwesterly direction until it meets the road to Swaffham. Here, it crosses over and, passing through a disused railway bridge, becomes a pleasing, broad grassy track known as Procession Way. It may have been called this after the ceremony of ‘beating the bounds’ that used to be practiced along it, but more likely because of the number of religious processions that are thought to have followed this part of the route on pilgrimage
to Walsingham.

After a mile (1.6km), you reach a crossways of paths, the left-hand of which leads to the interesting and still largely unspoilt market town of Swaffham. After another 500yds (450m) you meet the hurly-burly of the A47.

Thankfully leaving the A47 behind, now make your way down a metalled farm lane, across the old Swaffham–East Dereham railway line, then go right and left past a row of cottages, past Palgrave Hall on your left and on to the farm at Great Palgrave. Between here and Little Palgrave Hall to the north is the site of the medieval villages of Great and Little Palgrave, deserted since the terrible ravages of the Black Death. A certain melancholy atmosphere still lingers here. Nearby is the particularly attractive
village of Sporle.

The route now leaves the original Peddars Way and follows metalled roads across high country, slipping down the left-hand-side of a hedge on its way down to the ancient crossroads with the A1065 at Bartholomew’s Hills.

The Peddars Way now goes up and then down again, past South Acre to Castle Acre in the valley of the Nar, affording fine views of the priory. The original Peddars Way is likely to have continued its straight course over Hungry Hill towards Castle Acre.

Castle Acre is a charming and fascinating village, and it is well worth spending a little time here. Granted to William de Warrenne by the Conqueror, it was he who built the castle, of which the fine bailey gate still guards the entrance to the village. It was his son who founded the Cluniac priory. The earthworks of the now mainly vanished castle are considered by some to be the most impressive in the country, and are certainly some of the largest, while the magnificent remains and attachments of the priory should on no account be missed. Until the Dissolution, one of the priory’s greatest treasures to attract pilgrims on the Walsingham Way was what was claimed to be the arm of St Philip. There are now various bed-and-breakfast establishments, a pub and a restaurant in the village to cater for a more modern sort of sightseer. From Castle Acre, the Peddars Way turns left out of Stocks Green and follows the road to Great Massingham. It must be said that this section of the route is not the most exciting, for, after a stretch of footpath behind a hedge, the walker is forced to walk on the gradually ascending road for well over 2 miles (3.2km). Large agricultural estates, farmed with maximum efficiency, border both sides, and it is with some relief that you continue straight on, when the road eventually bends right at Shepherd’s Bush. The route descends a pleasant, broad track to the junction with the B1145 by Rhubarb Cottage and Betts Field Barn.