Pennine Way: Bellingham to Byrness

Make the most of the shops and other services in Bellingham before you set off on this walk because you won’t encounter any more facilities for many, many miles. There is a strong sense of wilderness about the heather country encountered on this section of the Pennine Way. This is enhanced by the lack of settlement and the far-reaching views, particularly from the top of Deer Play and Brownrigg Head. Stride out under those big skies and soak up the peace and tranquillity of those wide open spaces as much as you can because, eventually, you descend into the dark world of the border forests.

From the middle of Bellingham, follow the West Woodburn Road for 0.5 miles (800m), then turn left along a track to Blakelaw Farm.

From the farm, the Pennine Way climbs up an open pasture, following posts, and eventually heading to the right of a block of pines. Through the gate, the route is soon on to open moorland below Callerhues Crag. You quickly reach a fingerpost. Bear right, heading north above the Hareshaw Burn, and below Hareshaw House. The ground is usually marshy and there are old coal workings littered around the hillsides. The route continues for 2 miles (3km) to reach the B6320.

The Pennine Way heads northeast from the road before swinging north on to higher ground and making for the stone cairn on the top of the distant hill called Deer Play. From the cairn and fingerpost on the brow of Deer Play, the route drops down over boggy ground and past some shake holes to make for the top of Whitley Pike; a fine-featured hill to the northwest. It then drops down to a minor road.

A wire fence and, later, a wall make the next few miles of the route easy to find: past Grey Mare rock and up to the ridge of Padon Hill. Its bell-shaped monument, to the right of the fence, is visible for miles. After Padon Hill, and still following the fence (and wall), the path heads northwest, then northeast, to the next open hilltop of Brownrigg Head. There are fine views of Redesdale and the Cheviot Hills, and of Otterburn, where one of the most famous border battles was fought in 1388. Turning left, northwest again, you approach the forest edge.

The route enters forest plantations and a long walk begins through dull conifer country. Eventually, the track descends into Redesdale.

Past the Forestry Commission car parking and toilets at Blakehopeburnhaugh, the route turns left along the east bank of the River Rede and meanders with it past picnic places and sallow groves to Cottonshopeburnfoot. These are the longest placenames in England! After crossing to the west bank of the river, the route follows a forest drive, then drops down to the right, across the river again and past tiny St Francis Church. The village of Byrness, built by the Forestry Commission for its workers in the days before mechanized harvesting, lies a few hundred yards along the A68, reached by turning left after the church. The road is fast and busy, leading up to Carter Bar and the border. Byrness village is the last provisioning point before the border ridge; there are no shops between here and Kirk Yetholm, 27 miles (43.5km) away. There is a youth hostel and bed-and-breakfast accommodation.