South Downs Way: Fulking Hill to Ditchling Beacon

Its first highlight is the Devil’s Dyke. A natural phenomenon, it got its name because, according to legend, the devil dug a dyke in the hillside in order to flood the surrounding country and its churches, but was interrupted and never finished the job. We’ve all been there. The route ends in spectacular fashion at Ditchling Beacon. One of the highest points of the South Downs Way, this is the site of an ancient hill fort, where fires were lit to warn of the Spanish Armada four centuries ago. From here, the North Downs can be seen on a clear day and, closer to hand, Ashdown Forest and Crowborough Beacon.

Beyond Fulking Hill, the route goes over open grassland towards the isolated Devil’s Dyke pub at the top of Devil’s Dyke, above the village of Poynings and its 13th-century church.

The route crosses a narrow road which connects the pub to the outside world and continues to the right of the hill fort ramparts with the dyke below to the left. A funicular railway used to bring tourists to the pub, then a hotel, and a large direction board shows the many viewpoints that can be seen on a clear day from the summit. The SDW now follows the open grass top, staying south of the Iron Age hill fort and WWII pillbox, onto the hamlet of Saddlescombe, once the site of a Knights Templars house.

At the bottom of the hill a path leads off to the right past farm buildings, coming to a sunken track that heads up towards open downland above West Hill. The National Trust’s Newtimber Hill, a popular viewpoint rich in downland flora and fauna, is about 0.5 miles (800m) to the north. Carrying on along the top of the down, the route then heads downhill on a bridleway, joining the A23 Brighton road by The Plough at Pyecombe.

Having crossed the main road by the road bridge, the South Downs Way is signposted right, past the church, which has an unusual lead font. Near by is the smithy, renowned for the manufacture of
Pyecombe shepherds’ crooks in the days when sheep rather than cereals dominated the Downs. The route turns right to cross the A273 Haywards Heath road, turning off eastwards through the entrance of Pyecombe Golf Club a short way uphill. Past the club buildings, the route follows a fenced track along potentially muddy ground, keeping to the side of the golf course and then following the Headland. Beyond New Barn Farm the twin Jack and Jill windmills come into view above Clayton
village. They are one of the famous landmarks of the Downs. The white post mill ‘Jill’ has been fully restored and grinds flour. Jack, the black tower mill, is a private house.

The route carries on eastwards, passing the Keymer Post on the top of the Downs at 764ft (233m), then coming close by dewponds and across grassland as it climbs toward the trig point at the top of Ditchling Beacon (825ft/248m). A steep, narrow road connects Brighton with the village of
Ditchling on the north side of the Downs. It was once a Saxon royal estate and has some interesting houses, including one known as Anne of Cleves’ House, though there is no proof that she ever lived there. There is a choice of bed-and-breakfast accommodation.