The 1994 film The Madness of King George did much to remind the world of a monarch whose identity had been obscured by time. In the Dorset town of Weymouth, however, he has never been forgotten. Weymouth is a trading port with a proximity to France that had left it vulnerable to raids. The town found new life in the 18th century as a base for trade with the Americas and the shipping of convicts to Australia. The 1780s saw the emergence of the cult of sea bathing (even seawater drinking), and Weymouth joined in. A royal visit in 1789, however, was to rocket the little town to the top rank of seaside resorts.

Rumours of George III’s mental instability were threatening to destabilise the country. Accordingly, it was decided that the King should go on a short and highly visible tour, to enable his subjects to see how much better he was. Weymouth was picked, and a six-day journey commenced for the royal party, which consisted of the King, the Queen and three princesses. It was a great build-up and, by the time they reached Weymouth, the crowds were ecstatic, with bunting, mayoral receptions and gunships firing salutes. The King responded with a short walkabout on his very first evening and the declaration that he ‘never saw a sight so pleasing’.

Any hopes that the King might have had of a quiet dip in the sea, however, were dashed a week later by the strength of local enthusiasm for the royal visitor. Even as his royal-crested bathing hut was being wheeled into the sea, a band hidden in a nearby bathing machine were waiting to burst into a loyal song as soon as the regal body hit the water. George III spent ten weeks here on his first visit, enjoying day trips to Lulworth, Milton Abbey and St Aldhelm’s Head, and sailing off Portland. The royal family returned two years later for a holiday and then returned every year until 1805. In 1808 John Rainier arranged for a symbol of the town’s loyalty and gratitude for the royal attention to be carved into the chalk downs above Osmington. A silhouette of the King on horseback was created, 324ft (99m) high, riding away from the town. Once clearly visible from Weymouth, Portland and ships out at sea, today the chalk figure is weathered and grey, but otherwise in very good condition.

From Osmington church walk down the village street of pretty thatched cottages. At the junction keep on down Church Lane. Opposite The Cartshed turn left up a steep flight of steps. The path then bears right and undulates through the trees. Cross a stile and continue straight along the hedge to the end of a field.

Cross a stile and turn right down through a hedge gap, and immediately climb a stile on the left. Slant down the field to a stile in the far bottom corner, meanwhile looking to your right to see the White Horse. Turn left, crossing a farm track, and go through a gate by a stile. Cross the next field to its far bottom corner, beside the River Jordan. Cross a stile and an earth ditch (parish boundary). Continue along the bottoms of two fields, next to the largely hidden river. Cross a track to a gate, and through it follow a track ahead, which bends right to cross the river. At once go through a small gate on the left. Continue towards Sutton Poyntz, taking a gate and then a path to the village street.

Turn right, passing the Mill House and the tall, red-brick mill on your left. Pass the village pond and just after the Springhead pub on the right, turn left along Mission Hall Lane and then right up a track past Springfield Cottage. Go through a gate with a pumping station on the right, and continue ahead. After the next gate, carry on along the track to just below the entrance to steep Spring Bottom Combe.

Cross a stile by a gate and turn left up a raking, grassy track. It passes a beacon erected in 2005 for the bicentenary of the Battle of Trafalgar. At the top of the steep slope, go through a gate and bear right beside a phone wire up to a hedge, and turn right along the scarp top. (From here you’ll follow signs ‘South Dorset Ridgeway’ back to Osmington.) Along the green track you pass numerous tumuli, or prehistoric burial mounds, with great views along the valley and down to Weymouth Bay and Portland. Through a gate at the head of Spring Bottom Combe, keep ahead to pass a tumulus with a dew pond, and take a narrow gate on the left to join a track signposted for Osmington. Soon this passes a trig point. Go through a gate and keep straight on, with a good view to strip lynchets (terraces) on the hillside ahead.

After the next gate bear down to the right, signed ‘Osmington’. The track leads down the hill, through a gate – look back to see the White Horse again. Follow the lane back up through the village to your car.