Through Woodlands at Frilsham

The story of the English pub spans more than 1,000 years, beginning with the dismal alehouses of the Anglo-Saxon period. Later came the old drovers’ hostelries, followed by coaching inns and then Georgian and Victorian pubs built to take advantage of the canal and railway trade. Today our city centres feature theme pubs, usually designed to appeal to younger drinkers, and many of our country pubs have gone down the dining route. With changing population patterns, declining pub drinks consumption, and the problem of drinking and driving, many hostelries have had little choice other than to become upmarket dining pubs.

A traditional local pub

The Pot Kiln has been a famous tavern in this isolated part of West Berkshire for decades. Until the beginning of World War II there were brick kilns in this area – hence the name of the pub. From the outside the inn could almost pass for a farm or a private house, and secluded among trees, it is superbly located down a narrow country lane. It used to be notoriously hard to find – it is not in the village centre, so when you are close by, don’t turn off to follow the Frilsham sign, instead look for the (approriate) brown heritage signpost.

There have been many additions and various changes to the inn over the years. Its bar, however, retains its original character. On a summer’s day sitting in its front garden, gazing out over nothing but glorious countryside while enjoying a glass or two of the splendid real ales it serves, is still an unbeatable pub experience in the finest English tradition.

With The Pot Kiln and then its stables on your left, follow the track into the woods, passing several houses, including Laurel Bank Cottages. Ignore the public footpath on the left, go past two cottages and bear left just beyond them to follow a footpath between holly trees. This leads to a turning, on the left, to St Frideswide’s Well. It is dedicated to the semi-legendary French saint (as is Frilsham Church), who may have visited these parts in the late 7th century. Local lore has it that young couples would come to the well to see if the male was approved of by a spitting toad that lived here. If the creature spat at him, then it was assumed that his intentions were not honourable. Return to the path, bear right at the next fork and continue straight on to the road. Turn left and walk through Frilsham village. Pass Beechfield, a residential development, and turn left at the sign for Hermitage and Bucklebury. 

Beyond Little Orchard, where the lane bends right, go straight ahead, following the path deep into the woods. Pass through a gate and continue on the bridleway to the next waymarker. Turn left at this point, following the path down the wooded slope to the road. Cross over, walk left downhill for 100yds (91m), then turn right onto a track signed ‘Restricted Byway’. Pass a waymarked track on the right and continue on the main track, following it through woodland to the next waymarked junction.

Turn left here and cut through bluebell woods to a gate. Cross the field to a fence gap in the next boundary, with traffic on the M4 visible in the distance. Veer half left in the field. To the right in the distance you can just make out the facade of Yattendon Court, up among the trees. Cross the field and make for a bridleway gate on the right, running into the trees.

Beyond the wood, follow the path between fences and swing left at the next waymarked junction. Walk along the track to the next junction, where there are footpath and bridleway signs, and veer right. Follow the track round the side of Magpie Farm and on reaching the road, turn left. Return to the car park by The Pot Kiln.