Visiting the Hownsgill Viaduct

Like our own time, the 19th century was an age of great inventiveness when developing technical skill and entrepreneurial zeal constantly pushed at the boundaries to create new goods, increase productivity and establish new markets. The abundance of coal, limestone and iron ore deposits in the Northeast had fuelled an iron and steel industry that developed from the medieval period on. During the Victorian era new techniques in smelting, casting and forging and the improved application of water and later steam power raised the industry to new levels. However, the massive industrial expansion from the middle of the century could not have taken place without the railways.

The age of the train

The horse-drawn waggonways, which themselves had revolutionised cartage at places like Causey, further north, were becoming a thing of the past, with reliable and powerful steam engines being able to move heavy and bulky cargoes economically across the country. The rail network rapidly spread across the land, directly linking places of production with their raw resources and the developing mass markets.

The canals before them had wrought a similar transformation in ending the previous age of the packhorse and carter. But they were still relatively slow and not always practical in hilly areas, despite the ambitious waterways forced across the Pennines further south. The early railways initially followed the courses set by the canals, but improved design soon overcame their limitations and intrepid routes requiring miles of tunnel, deep cuttings and towering viaducts were soon forged into the hills. It seemed that Victorian engineers knew no bounds and that no obstacle was too great to overcome.

Pushing at the bounds of civil engineering

Their daring and skill are dramatically illustrated on this walk, which passes both beneath and over the top of the Hownsgill Viaduct. When the Stanhope and Tyne Railway was first built in 1834, the cost of bridging the gorge proved prohibitive, and instead, inclines were built either side, with a single stationary steam engine at the bottom used to haul the wagons up and down. Completed in 1858, the viaduct was part of the modernisation of the line. Its 12 arches, constructed using over three million bricks, span 700ft (213m) and stand 175ft (53m) high. The line had been built to link the limestone quarries above Weardale and the north Durham coalfields with the seaport at South Shields, and enabled the steelworks at Consett to develop as a major industry.

The walk also follows a short section of the Lanchester Valley Railway, which crosses the Stanhope and Tyne Railway near the viaduct. That line opened in 1862 and ran between Consett and Durham.

Walk towards the river, following it downstream through the park. Approaching a play area, bear right past a car park to the road by the entrance to a caravan park. Cross to a stile opposite into Allensford Woods Nature Reserve. Climb away through young plantation to the top of a rise. The path continues toward a fence, but before reaching it, swing left on a fainter path into mature wood. After following an embankment, descend to a gravel path. Turn right and climb through the wood. Beyond a wooden bridge, keep right with the main path, eventually emerging onto a street. 

Go left past a school and follow the street around the edge of a housing estate to the main road. Turn left to The Castleside Inn. 

Leave opposite the pub along a gravel track past allotments and signed as a footpath. The way continues through trees and then across open grassland towards the Hownsgill Viaduct. Passing back into trees, continue beneath the viaduct. Meeting a track, take the right branch along the base of the valley. Further on, where it swings up left, stay ahead on a grass trail, soon passing through a gate. In time, joining a path from the right, follow it up and over a stile onto a lane at Knitsley.

Turn left. Approaching a railway bridge, drop right to the trackbed of the Lanchester Valley Railway and swing beneath the bridge. Reaching a junction, turn left up to a lane by Hown's Farm. 

Cross to a track opposite to the left, keeping ahead where it forks to join the Stanhope and Tyne Railway. Follow it on over the Hownsgill Viaduct for almost a mile (1.6km) to the A68 at Rowley. The track continues opposite past a car park and picnic area on the site of the old station, ultimately coming out onto a lane. 

Walk right for 300yds (274m) to a signed gate and stile on the right. Head away down a field track, bearing slightly left beyond its end. Passing through a gap into a lower field, keep going downfield. Towards the bottom, skirt right of rush tussock then swing left to find a path through gorse leading to a stile in the bottom fence. Cross a stream below to a car park opposite and turn left out to a lane.

Head uphill for 75yds (69m) before leaving along a footpath signed off left. Drop over a footbridge and climb on to a stile. Follow a field track to the right, which eventually turns from the wood to Dean Howl Farm.

Reaching a junction, turn sharp right into the farmyard. Pass right of barns, then left to pick up a path below a fence on the left. As the way shortly opens to a field, curve left along the top of bank above a wood, eventually arriving at a stile between an oak and an ash. Cross a final field to emerge onto a lane.

Walk down to a bend and keep ahead through a gate. Follow the field edge below a wood, passing between gateposts to continue with an outgrown hedge. Over a stile, the ongoing path descends into trees along a scar overlooking the river. Drop to a footbridge spanning a side stream beneath a pretty waterfall and curve left beside an old meadow. Come out at the far side beside a lodge onto the main road (A68) opposite Allensford Country Park.