Watersmeet and the Lynmouth floods

Watersmeet, where the Hoar Oak Water and East Lyn River converge, is a very popular spot for visitors to this part of the Exmoor National Park, and the Watersmeet car park, within a stone’s throw of the beauty spot on the A39, is nearly always busy. There is a much more satisfying – and quieter – way of getting there, via an easy and scenic walk that skirts round the busiest paths.

The National Trust owns 4,000 acres (1,600ha) of glorious countryside in West Exmoor – rocky cliffs, steep oak-wooded valleys, open moorland and rushing rivers. Much of the area has been designated as a Site of Special Scientific Interest and there are 70 miles (113km) of footpaths. But in the early 18th century Daniel Defoe described Exmoor as ‘a filthie barren waste’, in keeping with contemporary views of wilderness areas. Few would agree with that notion today, but the landscape is certainly surprisingly dramatic for southern England – the East Lyn has cut 600ft (200m) into the moorland plateau. Its dramatic incised course is best viewed from the route of the Two Moors Way, which passes through Combe Park before running high above Myrtleberry Cleave on its way to its final destination, Lynmouth. This 102-mile (163km) long-distance walking route links Ivybridge with Lynmouth

Later in the 18th century popular views of landscape changed. The appeal of the Romantic Movement – promoted by such poets as Wordsworth and Coleridge – meant that landscapes such as Watersmeet and Lynmouth became fashionable and sought after. Revd W S Halliday bought the site in 1829, and built Watersmeet House as a secluded retreat and hunting lodge. Today it provides the perfect setting for a picturesque break.

On 15 August 1952, a 40ft (12m) wall of water surged downriver into Lynmouth. Houses and bridges were swept away by the torrents of water, boulders and debris, and 34 people died. This followed a prolonged spell of exceptionally heavy rainfall, culminating in 9in (228mm) of rain falling on Exmoor’s highest ground – The Chains – in 24 hours (one of the heaviest periods of rainfall ever recorded in the British Isles). Over 3 billion gallons (13.6 billion litres) of water fell into the area drained by the two rivers, with disastrous consequences.

Leave the car park and turn left, then right to cross Hillsford Bridge. Turn immediately left through a gate to follow the right bank of the Hoar Oak Water, slightly downhill (signed ‘Watersmeet’). The river along this stretch is particularly spectacular after heavy rainfall. Pass a waterfall and viewing point, and soon reach steps (left) leading to Watersmeet.

Ignore the steps and follow the path, bearing right, up the right bank of the East Lyn River, passing another path to Watersmeet. Soon pass an old lime kiln, once used to burn limestone brought to the coast by boat from South Wales. Here, Countisbury Common rises to 1,125ft (343m) above the steepsided river valley. Continue along the path, which winds its way through beautiful hanging oak woodland to reach a junction.

Take the ‘footpath to Rockford’ ahead through Barton Wood, descending through a beech glade to regain the river bank. When Ash Bridge is reached, cross to the opposite bank.

Turn left, signed ‘Watersmeet’, soon passing a path that climbs up to Countisbury. Lovely Crook Pool is passed at a bend in the river; continue along the narrow, undulating path, which climbs quite high above the water before the final descent to Watersmeet House.

Follow the river bank past the house, bearing right around the garden fence. Continue along the track down the East Lyn, then turn left over high-arched Chiselcombe Bridge, which was funded by public subscription after the former bridge was destroyed in the famous flood.

Once over the bridge turn left, and walk back up the river bank, and up steps. Bear left downhill to cross over the Hoar Oak Water on a wooden footbridge just above the meeting point of the two rivers. Ascend the steps right, following signs ‘Hillsford Bridge’, then turn right again and retrace your steps upriver to the bridge and back to Combe Park.