White Sheet Hill

Stourhead House stands peacefully amid striking parkland and glorious Wiltshire countryside. Looking at this tranquil scene, it seems hard to believe that on 16 April 1902, a devastating fire broke out in the house. The fire raged through Stourhead with terrifying speed and intensity, consuming everything in its path and burning all night. The roof and windows were completely destroyed and by the next morning, smoke still rose from the remains. The great house had been reduced to a blackened shell, a ghostly ruin – its charred fragments a tragic reminder of Stourhead’s past glory. It must have been an incredible, heartbreaking sight.

Works of the great masters

It was two members of Stourhead’s household staff, a housemaid and an under housemaid, who discovered the fire when they went upstairs to resume their domestic duties shortly after breakfast that morning. Soon the servants were confronted with a horrifying sight. They found one of the front bedrooms filled with thick smoke coming from a fire in the chimney flue. Soon flames were ripping through the house. Members of staff were unable to halt its rapid progress through the rooms, but thanks to their stirling efforts, many of Stourhead’s precious heirlooms were saved. Items of furniture, numerous books and great works of art were all threatened by the effects of the disaster. Over a period extending to nearly 200 years, a collection of works by many of the great masters had been amassed at Stourhead. No time could be wasted and large teams of people hastily and precariously passed as many valuable items as they could manage in the time, out through the windows and on to the lawn in front.

Hand pumps and horse carts

By now, many villagers had arrived to join in the highly dangerous rescue operation. Some had spotted the smoke from their homes. Soon a horse-drawn fire engine, hand pumps and horse carts arrived from the nearby villages of Mere and Zeals, and the town of Frome. The fire crews battled furiously to put out the blaze, pumping water from Stourhead’s nearby lake. Members of the family also did their bit to rescue Stourhead’s priceless possessions, though its master, Sir Henry Hoare, was away at a meeting in Salisbury at the time of the fire. There is a surviving photograph of his wife, Lady Alda Hoare and staff cataloguing saved items on the lawn. Though the damage was considerable – the fire gutted the central core of the house but mercifully left the picture gallery and library untouched – Stourhead was rebuilt, with work completed in 1907.

From the car park at Stourhead make for the road and turn left. Shortly swing right at the main entrance to Stourhead House, keeping to the path beside the drive. When the drive sweeps left towards the house, keep ahead on an obvious grassy path running across the parkland. Merge with a track and keep ahead to a lane.

Cross over to a stile and in the field follow the path ahead making for a pair of stiles in the distant boundary. The stiles are located between electricity poles. Continue straight ahead to the left of a hedge, following the grass track to a stile in the corner. Descend some steps and turn right along the sunken bridleway (Long Lane) to reach the B3092, opposite the Red Lion pub.

Cross over and follow the lane to the right of it, heading towards White Sheet Hill. This is White Sheet Lane. Follow it through pleasant farmland and at the foot of White Sheet Hill pass a parking area on the right. Follow the byway as it begins a lengthy climb to the hilltop. Stay on it as it sweeps round to the right and shortly before it bends left, cross the stile on your right by the information board.

Turn immediately left alongside the fence to reach the Iron Age fort. At the trig point, cut across the centre of the fort and bear right along the path on top of the rampart. On reaching the spectacular scarp edge, keep right and follow it as it sweeps majestically to the left. From this high ground there are magnificent views of west Wiltshire. Stourhead and King Alfred’s Tower can be seen from here and you can look south-east across the Blackmore Vale to the Dorset Downs beyond. Follow the grassy flanks and gradually the path descends between bushes to reach a stile leading into the car park encountered earlier.

Keep to the left of it and follow the track ahead, crossing two stiles and passing through several gates en route to the road. Along this stretch you pass Beech Clump. On reaching the B3092 opposite Drove Lodge, turn left for a few paces, then cross with care to a path running between trees. Cross a stile and cross the parkland towards Stourhead House. Rejoin the outward route of the walk and return to the car park.