Wide horizons at West Wittering

The seaside community of West Wittering is a genteel place, tucked away from the rest of Sussex on a peninsula at the mouth of Chichester Harbour. Despite the hordes of summer visitors who flock to the beach, it retains a dignified air, evoking distant memories of how small seaside towns used to be. The village evolved mainly during the first half of the 20th century, though some elderly residents recall this stretch of coast before it became fashionable, when open fields extended to the superb beach, providing a natural playground for children.

East Head, the slender spit of sand and shingle dunes at the mouth of Chichester Harbour, has changed dramatically during the last 250 years, influenced by the elements. In 1786 the spit pointed across the entrance of the harbour towards Hayling Island, but since then its position has moved and it now points north. In November 1963 part of East Head was breached by high spring tides and its future looked uncertain. The following year the dunes were artificially reshaped and stabilised before being handed to the National Trust in 1966. Work to restore this sensitive natural feature of the Sussex coast has continued ever since. Visitors are requested to use the boardwalks to avoid trampling the marram grass, which is essential for helping stabilise the sand, and to stay out of the fenced- or roped-off areas.

The walk is most enjoyable at low tide when large expanses of sand are revealed. Between East Head and the mainland is an area of salt marsh known as Snowhill Creek, which provides a feeding ground for thousands of birds. Among the large numbers of wintering waders and wildfowl found here are Brent geese, shelduck, redshank and curlew. Up to 45,000 Brent geese fly into Chichester Harbour from September to December. Of that number around 5,000 settle at Snowhill Creek and graze the fields of West Wittering Estate.

Out on the shingle banks of East Head, ringed plovers nest. Their eggs are camouflaged to look like pebbles. Common and grey seals are both found in Chichester Harbour. When the tide is out you may spot them on mud banks.

The West Wittering Estate company was formed in 1952 by local residents who clubbed together to buy the land to prevent it from being developed as a holiday complex and to preserve it for public enjoyment. This is a good walk at any time of the year, though best avoided on sunny summer weekends when the beach can be very crowded.

Follow the drive through the extensive car park, and join the parallel shore path at the earliest opportunity. Pass a row of charming beach huts and a toilet block on the right. Continue ahead towards the mouth of Chichester Harbour, with Hayling Island seen on the far side. Bearing to the right with the beach, head sharper right for the East Head National Trust sign at the foot of a dune.

Follow the beach round the sand dune spit (if you do go onto the dunes, use the boardwalks). After completing the circuit, bear left along the path beside Chichester Harbour and look to the right for a glimpse of the tower at Cakeham Manor. A new flood defence has been built along here, the path running along the top of the embankment. Continue to the grassy open space of Snowhill Green, keeping along the left-hand side. Snow Hill, the part of West Wittering between the church and Chichester Harbour, has been suggested as the original Roman landing site in Britain.

Pass a footpath on the right and carry on along the harbour edge. Leaving West Wittering behind, the scrub-bordered path heads northwards, with open farmland on the right and the harbour and marsh landscape on the left. Eventually it bends right by a bird hide and seat. Continue along the tree-shaded footpath.

Turn right at the next footpath sign by a gate. Walk along Ellanore Lane, passing Ellanore Farm. On reaching the road, opposite the public conveniences, turn right if you want to visit the church. To continue on the main route, turn left to reach a junction and then bear right to walk through West Wittering. Pass the Old House at Home pub, and further along the road continue past Seaward Drive on the left, a private estate.

As the road bends left, cross to the right and take Berry Barn Lane, along which runs a bridleway. Follow the lane, and again the tower at Cakeham Manor can be seen just across the fields. On reaching the signs for East Strand and West Strand, go straight on to follow a path between panel fencing and bushes. With the beach ahead, turn right towards East Head and follow the path over the greensward. On the right is a row of striking villas, many of them discreetly screened by trees and hedges. The path continues over sand dunes. Beyond the villas, swing right through one of several gaps along the hedge to return to the car park.