Willingale – a tiny parish with two churches

So tiny is the peaceful and picturesque village of Willingale in central Essex, that if you blink you’ll miss it. Its cottages and houses are spread out over quite a large area, and the focal point of the village, its two churches – St Andrew’s and St Christopher’s – are unique in Essex as they share the same churchyard.

Sibling rivalry

There are many myths to explain how this came about, and one tale, now part of village folklore, tells of an argument between two sisters which resulted in each deciding to build her own church. It’s an entertaining story, but as St Christopher’s was built 200 years after St Andrew’s, one of the quarrelling sisters must surely have discovered the key to longevity.

A tale of two parishes

A more likely explanation for the twin churches lies in the names of the two parishes, Willingale Spain and Willingale Doe. In the 12th century Hervey d’Espania built Spains Hall and the church in Willingale Spain, and also gave his name to the parish. Then, in the 14th century, at a time when the wool industry was expanding, the d’Ou family settled in Willingale. Workers were attracted to the area and St Andrew’s simply couldn’t cope with the population explosion. The d’Ou family built St Christopher’s Church on the site of the already consecrated land, and this is probably where the name Willingale Doe originates.

Until 1929 each church had its own parish priest and congregation. Today they come under one parish and the churchyard is separated by the Essex Way, a long distance path which stretches across Essex from Epping in the southwest to Harwich in the northeast. The churches are well worth visiting, and if you stroll through the churchyard you are in for a treat, with magnificent views across the Roding Valley.

An American air base

During World War II Willingale buzzed with the sound of aircraft from the 387th Bombardment Division of the United States Army Air Force (USAAF). Officers were based at nearby Willingale Airfield, now abandoned; St Andrew’s Church offered solace in the form of prayer and hope, while The Bell public house, across the road, provided many a pint. With just over 500 people in the village and two pubs in which to socialise, Willingale was and still is, a pint-sized parish. But these days the village is distinctly ‘dry’ as The Bell and the Maltsers Arms are now private residences.

With your back to the village hall, turn right, following the road around to the left. Turn right at the footpath sign by the former village school, now a private residence. At the end of the gardens, keep ahead to the right of a hedge and follow the grassy path as it curves right, to reach Dukes Lane. To your left are panoramic views of the Roding Valley.

Turn left into Dukes Lane, and after passing a house called McKerros look out for where you turn right at a public footpath sign. Walk up the embankment and maintain direction along the field-edge path with the stream on your right for about 400yds (366m). At a hedge gap and fingerpost on the right, turn left along an uphill cross-field path, go over a plank footbridge by a hedge gap. Cross another field, a further footbridge and maintain direction along the left edge of the field until you reach a track.

Turn right on to the bridleway, pass Elm Cottage and its immaculate gardens and continue for 1 mile (1.6km), ignoring a pair of footbridges. At the T-junction turn right along a track, and at the next T-junction turn left and then right at the waymarked post to join the Essex Way. Follow this wide byway south, passing Windmill Farm on your left to reach Shellow Road.

Cross the road and continue along the Essex Way, with views of Shellow Hall to your left. After 300yds (274m), cross a plank footbridge, turn right and later left, keeping the hedgerow to your right. After another 100yds (91m), turn right through the gap in the hedge, then continue with the hedgerow on your left.

In front of the cottages at Spains Wood, cross the footbridge over the ditch and turn right, continuing along the Essex Way. After an earth bridge, maintain direction, keeping the hedgerow on your left. Follow the path through the cricket field towards its far left corner. The path becomes enclosed before reaching the lane in Willingale. The Essex Way continues past The Bell on your right (now a private house) and crosses the churchyard between St Christopher's and St Andrew's churches. After exploring the churches and churchyard with its magnificent views, retrace your steps to The Street, which becomes Beech Road, and return to the village hall car park.