Àclèaf

Our Inspector's view

Five miles from Plymouth and close to Dartmoor National Park, 16th-century manor house Boringdon Hall was once given to the Earl of Southampton by none other than Henry VIII. Nowadays, it’s a luxurious country house hotel, full of charm and elegance although it doesn’t take much for you to imagine the doors swinging open and Henry VIII striding in, accompanied by the sound of buglers. Intimate and elegant Àclèaf is the ultimate fine dining restaurant, with tables looking out over the Great Hall. It’s all aged beams and period features, with an atmosphere that gives a sense of occasion without being overly formal. There’s an unstuffy elegance about the setting, but it has a nicely balanced ambience that’s enough to make a dining occasion feel special with plenty of chat at the tables. Attention to detail starts as soon as the bread arrives – excellent pain de campaign and oat-crusted rolls served with Normandy butter and whipped Wagyu beef fat butter. Before the main events, snacks of fennel salami, bouillabaisse studded with red mullet and shiitake mushroom and game doughnuts prepare the tastebuds for what’s to come. The seasonally led menus showcase the stylishly inventive cuisine, where creative yet simple combinations can be seen in dishes such as starter of sole, velouté and fermented grape – a great re-working of a classic pairing, updated for the 21st century – or perhaps beetroot paired with rosehip and elder. It could be followed by a precisely cooked piece of turbot with yuzu and langoustine, or confidently prepared Highland Wagyu beef with beetroot and pepper. Raspberry with pistachio and white chocolate makes for a stunning finish. The vegetarian and vegan options are equally enticing and might include such innovative flavour pairings as celeriac, walnut and caviar or Jerusalem artichoke, celery and goats’ curd.

Awards, accolades and Welcome Schemes

4 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence