Our Inspector's view

The elegant Lumière, owned and run by the Howes, lies a little way off the leafy promenade for which Cheltenham is famous. The building may be an unassuming terrace, but indoors looks the very image of a modern dining room. It’s an understated classy affair decorated in a soothing combination of cream and aubergine tones, statement mirrors and abstract artworks all adding up to a setting that says this is an operation of serious culinary intent. However, the capable hand of Helen Howe on the front-of-house tiller makes for a relaxing experience so nothing is too stiff or formal. Jon Howe's inventive British cooking delivers vibrant modern flavours, deploying plenty of technical wizardry showcased in tasting menus of six or eight courses. Another way to appreciate Lumière and see what it has to offer is to come for lunch on Friday or Saturday and try the four-course tasting menu. If you’re coming for the full tasting menus, then things begin with a volley of snacks such as Cornish crab, pink grapefruit and viola or mac and cheese with black garlic and autumn truffle. The palate suitably primed, further courses might see diver-caught Orkney scallops matched with tomato, ponzu and basil. A mid-meal tequila shot with salt and lime clears the way for the meaty satisfaction of Stokes Marsh Farm beef fillet, hispi cabbage, onion and dill. Dessert creations are equally pleasurable, such as damson souffle, yoghurt and almond milk. Vegetarians are well catered for too, with a tasting menu that’s no mere afterthought and shows the same level of creativity in dishes such coronation cauliflower, apricot, crème fraîche and almond or butternut squash, moussaka, girolle mushrooms, broad beans, spinach and spiced orange. Some produce comes from the recently established kitchen garden.

Awards, accolades and Welcome Schemes

3 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence