Our Inspector's view

The entrance to Paris House Restaurant certainly raises expectations as you pass through the grand gateway and cross the Duke of Bedford's deer park at his Woburn estate to reach this beautiful half-timbered Tudor-style building. It’s all fake, of course: originally constructed in Paris for the 1878 International Exhibition, then taken apart, shipped across the Channel and reassembled here. Inside, it’s another story as the door opens onto the 21st century in refined surroundings of impeccable contemporary taste, complete with modern chandeliers, sleek furniture, and artworks that include a wall of seasonally changing, food-related works. Phil Fanning’s modern British food is equally in tune with both seasons and current thinking, deftly adding his unique stamp to an international cast of ingredients. Dipping creatively into global – particularly Japanese - influences, the output consists of six- and eight-course tasting menus brimful with boldly inventive ideas. Start with perfectly timed brill pointed up ceviche-style with a leche de tigre citrus marinade, green tomato, chilli and sweet potato. Next up, black truffle and Parmesan raise humble gnocchi to another level, then it’s a trip to Asia for succulent pork belly in a pillowy steamed bun, all fired up with gochujang. Timings and techniques are spot on in perfectly executed hamachi (Japanese amberjack), the rich, buttery texture of the fish combined with white miso, sea kale and a virtuoso workout of cauliflower in various guises. Slot in a plate of artisan cheeses as an optional extra, before thrillingly creative desserts bring a smoothly refined finish to a memorable meal. A reinvented carrot cake involving molasses-like kuromitsu sugar, mandarin, and carrot sorbet is a stunner, while white chocolate and hibiscus cheesecake is a dish of impressive intensity. Relaxed, knowledgeable and professional service is at hand to guide you through every stage, and wine pairings are assembled with expertise and imagination.

Awards, accolades and Welcome Schemes

3 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence