Paris House Restaurant

Our Inspector's view

While the entrance and approach is every bit the showstopper, passing through a grand gateway and crossing the Duke of Bedford's 22-acre deer park at his Woburn Estate, the sight of the beautiful half-timbered Tudor-style building of the Paris House Restaurant is equally beguiling. Okay, it maybe fake, originally constructed in Paris for the 1878 International Exhibition, then dismantled, shipped across the Channel and reassembled here, but it makes a thoroughly endearing statement and raises the anticipation and expectation ante. It’s a different look inside, one of snazzy, refined contemporary styling, complete with modern chandeliers, sleek furniture (with hues of blue seating), and a wall of seasonally changing, food-related artworks. This is the classy, unique setting for chef-patron Phil Fanning’s innovative, high-impact modern British cuisine, which comes at one with the seasons, on-cue with fashion and driven by prime ingredients, while Phil’s refined Japanese technique is pivotal in achieving maximum flavour. His plates come dressed to thrill, displaying craftsmanship, precision and creativity, and highlighted by those brushstrokes of flavour and texture combination, teamed with a subtle nod to Asian. It’s all delivered by a seasonal tasting menu; perhaps the luxury of baked Orkney scallop to start, served with spring vegetables and a miso beurre blanc with Avruga caviar, while turbot could be teamed with Isle of Wight tomatoes, chorizo, and a mussel and black olive ragù with sea herbs. Lamb Caesar might feature as the meat course, with a fermented lettuce, wild garlic and anchovy partnership, and the final flourish, perhaps strawberries, served with white chocolate, marshmallow and pink peppercorn. For the ultimate experience, aim for a prized Chef’s Table seat (surcharged) in the heart of the kitchen overlooking the pass. Relaxed, knowledgeable and professional service aptly fits the bill wherever you sit, while wine pairings add the final touch of class to proceedings.

Awards, accolades and Welcome Schemes

3 Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence