The Chubby Castor
“Assured cooking in the country” - AA Inspector
Our Inspector's view
Set within the historic Fitzwilliam Arms, a thatched Grade II listed building dating back to the 17th-century, The Chubby Castor is a charming and characterful restaurant. Its timeless chocolate box look belies a contemporary interior, with attentive staff explaining each course in detail at the table. Much of the dialogue is inevitably about the produce used as there is an unwavering commitment to sustainability and many of the raw materials are grown in the kitchen garden. Whether ordering from the à la carte, set, tasting or plant-based menus, there is plenty to choose from and it won’t be easy. Start with a moist terrine of chicken and duck liver, Sauternes jelly and light-textured onion brioche, or maybe go for the smoked eel, Charlotte potatoes, salted Exmoor caviar and sage velouté. When it comes to the main course, there might be a correctly timed and flavoursome fillet of bass with smoked crab tortellini, leeks, salsify, asparagus and rich lobster bisque, or if sharing is your thing, the char siu pork loin (for two people) with polenta cake, Stornoway black pudding and chargrilled lettuce is a winning combination. The quality of the cooking and pin-sharp presentation continues right through to the pudding stage. Chocolate ganache with candied pistachios, apricot jam and whipped Chantilly cream is a dessert with plenty of finesse. The chefs can be really tested by ordering the light and airy strawberry soufflé with its refreshing mint ice cream. Of course, an exemplary additional course of perfectly kept British cheeses – five or nine different types – with all the proper accompaniments is another way to round off a memorable meal. An extensive wine list has been carefully considered to complement the dishes, with wine flights and a strong choice is also available by the glass.
Awards, accolades and Welcome Schemes
Facilities – at a glance
Credit cards accepted
Gluten free menu
- Seats: 50
- Private dining available
- On-site parking available
- Wheelchair accessible
- Steps for wheelchair: 1
- Accessible toilets
- Assist dogs welcome
- Closed: Monday, Tuesday, 1–15 August
- Wines under £30: 10
- Wines over £30: 90
- Wines by the glass: 30
- Cuisine style: Modern British
- Vegetarian menu
Also in the area
About the area
To the west of East Anglia is Cambridgeshire, a county best known as the home to the university that makes up the second half of ‘Oxbridge’ (the other half is Oxford). As well as its globally renowned educational credentials, it also has a rich natural history; much of its area is made up of reclaimed or untouched fens. These are low-lying areas which are marshy and prone to flooding. The lowest point in the UK is at Holme Fen, which is some 9 feet (2.75 metres) below sea level. Some of the fens had been drained before, but it was in the 19th and 20th centuries that wide-spread, successful drainage took place, expanding the amount of arable and inhabitable land available.
Ely Cathedral was built on an island among the swampy fens, but now sits among acres of productive farmland, albeit farmland criss-crossed by miles of flood-preventing watercourses. Oliver Cromwell was born in Ely, and his family home can still be visited. Cambridge itself is a beautiful and historic city, with any number of impressive old buildings, churches and colleges, and plenty of chances to mess about on the River Cam which gave the city its name.
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