Walk towards the Hunters Inn. Bear right past the building to walk along a wooded track signed ‘Heddon’s Mouth’. At the junction keep left, signed ‘Heddon’s Mouth only’. Where the path splits later keep left, close to the river. Pass a stone bridge over the river and keep ahead.

Turn left over a wooden footbridge, then turn right and walk towards the coast to reach the 19th-century lime kiln above the rocky beach. Retrace your steps inland but stay on the west bank (river left) to pick up the coast path to Combe Martin. Pass through a gate, and keep ahead until a sign to Combe Martin directs you right, sharply uphill.

A steep zig-zag climb is rewarded with amazing views across the valley and inland. Keep going along the narrow path, which runs parallel to the valley to reach the coast above Heddon’s Mouth, then turns left to run towards Peter Rock. The cliffs here are over 650ft (200m) high and sheer, and the path is narrow and exposed – take care. Eventually the path runs inland to meet a wall and a coast path post.

Turn right. Follow the coast path west for about 0.75 miles (1.2km), then pass through a gate, turn right, then through another gate to rejoin the cliff edge. Go through a gate above Neck Wood, cross the next field and pass through a gate on to open access land.

Keep ahead to reach a path junction; turn left, signed ‘County Road’. Head uphill, with the bank left, to reach the rough parking area and lane at Holdstone Down Cross, on the edge of Trentishoe Down.

Turn immediately left along the narrow lane, following signs for Trentishoe church (the signpost here misleadingly points back the way you have come). Walk down the lane to find the church above you on the left – this is a good place for a break.

Continue downhill below Town Cottage to pass the point where there is a ‘To coast path’ sign pointing left. Walk straight on down Trentishoe Hill (this lane is unsuitable for vehicles) which runs through wooded Trentishoe Cleave.

Turn left at the valley bottom by pretty cottages. Walk along the lane past a footpath sign to the Heddon Valley on the left, pass Harry’s Orchard and cross the Blackmoor Water, and then the Heddon river just before the Hunters Inn. Turn right to find your car.

Shortening the walk

If the rigours of the coast path get too much for you, you can escape from the cliffs soon after Peter Rock, and take this shorter way to the simple church at Trentishoe.

At Point 4 on the main walk, turn left, signed ‘Trentishoe Church’. This lovely, grassy, level path runs inland 720ft (220m) above the valley of the River Heddon, and the views over the deep combes that join the main valley are glorious. It’s a very easy walk, and a welcome relief after the coast path.

The path meets the lane at Point A (Point 7 – ‘access to coast path’ sign). Turn right up the lane and, after 200yds (183m), you will see St Peter’s Church above the lane on the right. It’s hard to work out why there should be a church here – it’s in the middle of nowhere – but 96 people are recorded as living here in 1891. The church is mentioned in the Episcopal Register of 1260. The tiny castellated tower dates from the 15th century, and it is thought that at one time smugglers’ contraband was hidden within it. Until alterations were made at the end of the 19th century this was the smallest church in Devon. There’s a wonderful musician’s gallery, built in 1771, and a lovely piece of information about the first organ, which was introduced in 1861 on condition that ‘worthy parishioners are not asked to subscribe as they would expect to be allowed to join in the singing’. The hamlet also featured in R D Blackmore’s novel Clara Vaughan which was published in 1864 and set in Trentishoe. To rejoin the main route follow Points 7 and 8 from the church back to your car.