Start on the north side of the River Liffey by the end of Dublin’s famous and much photographed Ha’penny Bridge. Opened in 1816, this steeply arched footbridge has more than one nickname. It was first named after the Duke of Wellington, is officially known as the Liffey Bridge, and is sometimes called the metal bridge. But its best-known soubriquet comes from the halfpenny toll charged to cross it until 1919. At its south end, cross Crampton Quay to enter ‘Dublin’s Cultural Quarter’ by Merchant’s Arch. The arched gateway dates from the 18th century. Until the mid-19th century, merchant ships sailed up the Liffey to load and unload along the quays on either side. Later, larger steamships had to dock further downriver, which had a impact on Temple Bar – it began to decline as it lost trade.

Through the arch, a short cobbled alley lined with rather humdrum souvenir shops leads to Temple Bar, the original main street that has lent its name to the entire district. Follow this to the end and turn right, along the north side of Temple Bar. Across the street, on your left, is Temple Bar Square. Crown Alley, which forms the east side of Temple Bar Square, is lined with trendy cafés, colourful designer stores and small galleries. Carry on along Temple Bar for one short block, cross over Fownes Street, and enter the Temple Bar Gallery at 5–9 Temple Bar, just past the intersection of Temple Bar and Fownes Street. The Temple Bar Gallery and Studios is home to an array of cutting-edge artists and is always worth a visit. 

Leaving the gallery turn right, take the first left on Temple Lane South and cross the street. Walk one block to Curved Street and go right. The Arthouse Multimedia Centre for the Arts is on the left, opposite Temple Bar Music Centre. The city’s creative not-for-profit organisation, filmbase, is located on the left, opposite the entrance to the Temple Bar Music Centre on the corner of the street.

Continue along Curved Street and then cross Eustace Street to the east side of Meeting House Square. This square, named after a Quaker meeting house that formerly stood here, has become the bustling hub of the cultural quarter. Meeting House Square is used in summer for midday and evening concerts of classical music, outdoor film screenings (tickets are free from the Temple Bar Information Centre, bring an umbrella) and more impromptu performances by passing street entertainers. A Saturday farmers’ market sells a variety of produce ranging from Japanese sushi to Mexican burritos. Local organic items include breads, jams, yogurts and vegetables.

Walk diagonally across to the north side of the square. The entrance to the National Photographic Archive is now facing you. The National Photographic Archive (NPA) is an annex of the National Library of Ireland and has been housed here since 1998. Its three floors of exhibitions can show only a small percentage of its huge collection of around 300,000 images spanning more than 150 years and allowing you a fascinating glimpse of Dublin and Ireland in the vanished but not-so-distant past, when horse-drawn transport and steam power were the norm and people in the remoter parts of the country still warmed their homes with turf fires and dressed in age-old traditional costumes. The exhibits are rotated regularly, and there are also special thematic exhibitions; see the NPA website for details of what’s on when to visit. 

After leaving the National Photographic Archive, turn right, then almost immediately turn right again to leave Meeting House Square from its northwest corner. Turn left onto Essex Street East, cross Sycamore Street, and continue along the south side of Essex Street East for three blocks, crossing narrow Crampton Court, Crane Lane and the wider Parliament Street to your left. After crossing Parliament Street, Essex Street merges into Essex Gate. Cross to the other side of the road (Essex Gate), turn right into Exchange Street Lower and walk up this street. 

The Smock Alley Theatre on Exchange Street re-opened its doors in 2012 after an extensive restoration programme. The original theatre was one of the oldest in the world, founded in 1662 by John Ogilby and was the first royal theatre in Dublin. Many of the building’s original features have been retained and indeed form part of its interesting aesthetic including the tiered theatre space and the wonderful banquet hall with its stained-glass windows and sky-high ceiling. From fashion shows to literary discussions, intense theatrical performances to belly busting comedy sessions, this central artistic venue is once again full of life.

Leaving the theatre, backtrack to Parliament Street, turn left and walk down to Grattan Bridge, from where you can return to the city centre.