A Loop Around Esher Common

Esher Common is an area of mixed woodland and heathland and was designated as a Site of Special Scientific Interest in 1955. It also has areas of marsh, bog and open water, so a wide range of different habitats can be found here. At one time there was plenty of grazing on the common, but this has not happened for some time, so some of the heathland has turned to scrub.

Flora and fauna

A wide variety of unusual insects have been found here, including the white-letter hairstreak butterfly, the brilliant emerald dragonfly and the small red damselfly. Altogether around 2,000 insects have been identified, including 24 different species of dragonfly. Among the birds to be seen in the area are the goldcrest, nuthatch, sparrowhawk, hobby and tawny owl. There are flowers aplenty including dog’s mercury, lesser celandine and round-leaved sundew, and there are glorious swathes of bluebells in the spring.

Royal connections

Esher Common provides a green lung for the nearby town, which itself is an interesting place to explore, with its many shops and restaurants. Esher is a historic town, which was mentioned in the Domesday Book and was a royal hunting ground in the time of Henry VIII. During Henry’s reign, Cardinal Wolsey was held under house arrest at Esher Place. This was one of the grandest buildings of its time and its design was said to have been the inspiration for Hampton Court. It subsequently came into the family of Sir Francis Drake, but the original house has now been replaced by a more modern building, and the only relic of the original house is the 15th-century Wayneflete Tower.

The present building was constructed in the late 1890s, and still attracted royalty, in the person of Edward VII when he was Prince of Wales. Another famous visitor was Cecil Rhodes. The royal family also has other connections with Esher. Claremont House, just south of the town, was built for Clive of India, aka Major-General Robert Clive, Commander-in-Chief of British India, who established the supremacy of the East India Company in Bengal. It was later acquired by Queen Victoria and given to her son Leopold, Duke of Albany. She visited the house several times. It is now a school.

Facing the notice board in the car park, take the path farthest to the right, which is marked as a cycle path. After 220yds (201m), just after passing under the power lines, meet a cross-track and turn left. Continue ahead eventually bearing away from the clearing beneath the power lines and back into the trees; at a public bridleway sign carry straight on. At the next cross-tracks, continue straight on, following the public bridleway signed ‘Fairmile Common’.

At the Five Ways junction you’ll reach a notice board. Facing it, walk to its left to take the unsigned path between pine trees. Almost immediately, pass a metal water tank on the right, and 70yds (64m) beyond it you reach a wooden seat. This vantage point has splendid views across the Common. Another 25yds (23m) leads to a wooden boardwalk, after which turn right and follow the track, passing a bench and another boardwalk. Continue through a strip of heathland and eventually see views ahead of Black Pond on the right. Enter woodland and follow the path over a bridge to a seat, facing the pond. Cross a plank bridge and follow the path by the edge of the pond.

Meet a cross-track and turn right along the edge of the pond. From here, there are good views across the water, with its varied wildlife. Follow the Easy Access Trail along the side of the pond and then zig-zag round wooden barriers. Keep ahead, ignoring all turnings left and right, to eventually pass under power lines and across a strip of heathland. Ignore a path coming from the right, and at the next cross-tracks, turn right signed to Copsem Lane and Arbrook Common. Continue straight ahead on the main path, with houses to the left, ignoring three paths coming in from the right (the first is waymarked with a blue arrow). At the next blue waymarker on the left, turn right, following the blue arrow.

Stay on the main track, pass under power lines and pass the point you forked off the main track on the way out, immediately turning left. In 15yds (14m), fork to the right and the path bears right into woodland. Follow this track to return to the car park.