Speyside Way: Craigellachie to Carron

Craig Ailichidh, the original Gaelic spelling, means ‘strong rock’. The frowning cliff on the west side of the river serves to enhance the appearance of the graceful iron bridge below it. Craigellachie should not be left without making the short diversion to see Telford’s bridge over the Spey.

Telford's iron bridge

This is the oldest surviving iron bridge in Scotland. Built in 1814, it is the work of a genius, for Telford was using a new material and allowed his imagination full rein in taking every advantage of the lightness and airiness possible in an iron bridge. The iron was cast in Wales by Telford’s favorite ironmaster, William Hazledine. To reassure traditionalists the bridge has castellated towers at each end. It cost £8,200 to build: in terms of the average working wage, that would be about £5 million today. It survived the 'Muckle Spate' of 1829 which swept away many Spey bridges including Telford's other one at Fochabers, and carried road traffic until 1972, when the A941 was moved onto the reinforced concrete bridge that now stands alongside.

The bridge inspired the noted local fiddler, William Marshall, to write a Strathspey dance called Craigellachie Brig. Mention of this brings us to the vexed question of what to call the river valley the Speyside Way passes along. Local usage refers to the valley as Speyside from Grantown to the sea, and Strathspey from that town to the source. In local 'Doric' dialect the Speyside Way is the Strathspey Way, and in Gaelic it's Slighe Srath Spe!

Charles Grant's town<

The village (Charlestown of Aberlour, to give its full name) is another planned settlement, established here by Charles Grant of Wester Elchies in 1812. With typical modesty of the Scottish landowner class he did not name his new settlement after himself, but rather after his son – who, as it happened, was also named Charles. It has a broad, handsome main street and a small square holding the church, which has an unusual castellated tower. Like Craigellachie, Aberlour is a noted salmon fishing centre. Its distillery can be visited, on the southern edge of the town. As well as fish and whisky, the town manufactures shortbread. The Walkers Shop in the High Street doesn't offer hiking socks to Speyside wayfarers, but features the famous brand of shortbread. The village shop, also in the High Street, has been maintained partly in 19th-century style.

From here to Ballindalloch, the Speyside Way follows the track bed of the former Strathspey Railway (illustrating the Speyside/Strathspey point!). From Fiddich Park the railbed path starts off under a road bridge to reach the riverside at Craigellachie, a popular centre for fishermen. A signed path to the right would take you to Telford's bridge; the main path ahead passes under two more roads.

Between Craigellachie and Aberlour the path goes through the only tunnel on the line. It is a short affair some 150yds (135m) long with clear visibility. The railbed continues more or less beside the river, with the A95 close by to the left, to enter Aberlour. The route passes behind houses, then diverts off the railway to the nearby riverside path.

You must head across left to reach the former station, now the Speyside Way Visitor Centre and Ranger base. It has been extended and preserved, with part of the building open as a café in summer, selling excellent local produce at very reasonable prices. The café is manned on a voluntary basis by the ladies of the village, all the proceeds going to charity, so it is well worth patronizing. The station is now part of the attractive Alice Littler Park, named for the wife of Sydney Littler, a noted local benefactor. A graceful suspension footbridge crosses the river here (but the Speyside Way doesn't!), and the banks are favoured by anglers.

Ignore a grey footbridge ahead, but turn away from the Spey along a stream for a few steps. Rejoin the old railway to cross a suspension footbridge.

From Aberlour, the Speyside Way continues on the old railway. The plentiful tree cover and frequent cuttings mean that views are somewhat limited on this stretch, but it is easy walking. An early cutting displays pinkish granite rock, with white sparkly mica crystals: the same granite intrusion as Ben Rinnes which rises above the final stages of the walk.

The path runs alongside a minor road for a short distance, to cross the Spey on a bridge which gives good views not only along the river but down into it! By contrast with Telford's innovative iron bridge at Craigellachie, this was in fact the last cast-iron bridge made in Scotland. It dates from 1863 and features a lattice construction. It is worth going down to the river to look up at the bridge and appreciate its lightness. The path runs alongside the road into the small village of Carron, where it passes the entrance to the Imperial Distillery, home of the famous Black Bottle Whisky.